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~ exploring the world (with a little vélo love)

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Category Archives: outdoors

TIFF in the park brings classic screwball comedies to toronto all summer long

02 Thursday Aug 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in film, outdoors, photography

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TIFF in the Park gets bigger and bigger every summer, yet it still feels cosy, surrounded by glowing towers, trees and the night sky.  

OK, so summer’s half over and I’m only posting about this year’s TIFF in the Park screwball comedy-themed lineup now. But I’ve missed all the July classics thanks to my lovely camping adventures in northern Ontario (hello, Algonquin Park!), so I only got my first taste of this summer’s superpopular lineup last night.

And was I ever surprised to discover David Pecaut Square – the go-to green space for free outdoor entertainment, including my famous IDD flashmob – totally packed with movie lovers and freebie fanatics alike.

Sure, last year’s crowds were big, too, but the free outdoor film series presented by the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) and the Entertainment District BIA seems bigger than ever. It’s now in its third year, and I remember being one of a handful sitting on the grass three summers ago, watching Casablanca (see photo below), Cairo Time, Dragon Hunters and more. (Of course, I jest. There were more than a handful of us that first summer, but certainly the few of us there were generously spread out, with lots of green space in between.)

“Is that cannon fire or is that my heart pounding?” Casablanca. From TIFF in the Park’s first summer screenings, in 2010. 

Since TIFF started curating its outdoor summer selection last year (I still can’t figure out what the first year’s theme was), TIFF in the Park has been attracting more and more attendees. Last summer, with wonderful, colourful classic movie musicals, like Umbrellas of Cherbourg (see photo below), Mary Poppins, Singing in the Rain, Fiddler on the Roof, Funny Girl and The Sound of Music (my ultimate Christmas movie fave), it became increasingly difficult to find a prime spot – middle centre – if you didn’t get there by 8 p.m.! Apparently, Toronto, movie musicals aren’t just for geeks like me!

The Umbrellas of Cherbourg (Les Parapluies de Cherbourg, 1964), a candy-colour French opera with the lovely Catherine Deneuve, kicked off last summer’s series of classic movie musicals at TIFF in the Park.

And as I witnessed last night, Torontonians love their black-and-white screwball comedies as much as they relish their classic movie musicals! Who knew? Like last year, if you don’t get there well in advance of the start time (generally it’s 9 p.m., but by mid-August, it’s 8:30 p.m.), you’ll have to squeeze into the sidelines, with nary a green patch free. Be warned: Film fans start staking out their spot a good hour before the screening, spreading out blankets, freeing themselves of sandals and gathering with friends for a pre-film picnic. Some even bring their dogs!

If you don’t stake out the right spot, you could end up watching TIFF’s classic screwball comedies in the sidelines, with the backs of heads and an anchor line blocking your view. 

As if to acknowledge just how popular TIFF in the Park has become, this year TIFF even has concession stand volunteers walking around the park! There’s one in the photo below, offering popcorn for sale as last night’s film, Hitchcock’s Mr. and Mrs. Smith, begins – for those last-minute munchies, natch. You can also visit the concession stand at the far end of the park till about 30 minutes into the film, or you can dash over to any number of nearby restos, cafes, or the always-a-long-lineup Tim Hortons at the corner of John and King.

A popcorn volunteer (far left) walks around offering his wares just as the original Mr. and Mrs. Smith (Hitchcock’s 1941 classic comedy) starts, at last night’s TIFF in the Park. 

I’ve raved about Toronto’s boom of outdoor cinemas before, from the Toronto Port Authority’s Sail-In Cinema (here and here) and the Open Roof Festival to Harbourfront Free Flicks and TIFF in the Park, among others, and Fresh Air Cinema has been part of many of those screenings. The company’s inflatable screens – a double-sided one is used for the Sail-In Cinema! – are quick to set up and quick to tear down. As soon as the film ended last night, the screen deflated in seconds and the magic of TIFF in the Park seemingly went with it.

BEFORE: Crowds are sprawled across David Pecaut Square, watching Alfred Hitchcock’s Mr. and Mrs. Smith in the heart of Toronto’s entertainment district, enthralled by the magic of TIFF in the Park. 

AFTER: As soon as the film ends, the TIFF in the Park crowd scatters and the outdoor screen, supplied by Fresh Air Cinema, deflates in seconds. 

So, cinephiles, you still have four more weeks of free films to watch at my favourite outdoor cinema! I’m sure the finalé, Frank Capra’s It Happened One Night (1934), with Clark Gable and Claudette Colbert, will draw the largest crowd of the summer. Be sure to get there early!

__________________________________________________________________

What: TIFF in the Park, the FREE outdoor summer film series presented by TIFF (Toronto International Film Festival) and the Entertainment District BIA. This summer’s theme is classic screwball comedies.
Where: TIFF in the Park takes place in David Pecaut Square, the lovely parkette nestled between Roy Thomson Hall and Metro Hall, near King and John.
When: Every Wednesday night all summer long. Start times vary (see below).
Schedule: There are still four more films screening this summer!
Aug. 8 at 9 p.m.: The Philadelphia Story (1940), Katharine Hepburn,
Cary Grant, James Stewart

Aug. 15 at 9 p.m.: What’s Up, Doc? (1972), Barbra Streisand, Ryan O’Neal
Aug. 22 at 8:30 p.m.: The Lady Eve (1941), Barbara Stanwyck, Henry Fonda
Aug. 29 at 8:30 p.m.: It Happened One Night (1934), Clark Gable,
Claudette Colbert
Cost: FREE! 

Why: Who doesn’t enjoy spending a lovely balmy night under the stars, watching classic screwball comedies? 

toronto’s open roof film festival heralds the start of summer

21 Thursday Jun 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in bike, film, outdoors, photography

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Open Roof film fest volunteer training 2012

Volunteers gather in the Amsterdam parking lot for a brief training session as the Open Roof Festival prepares to kick-start Summer 2012.

Ahhh, summer in Toronto has arrived! And the heatwave of the past few days has finally subsided. Too bad the thunderstorms that brought tonight’s cooler climes (yes, these days 26°C is cool!) also brought the Open Roof Festival indoors – that is, not so open and def not outdoors.

And we all know how much I love outdoor cinemas: in green spaces (TIFF in the Park), on water (the way cool Sail-In Cinema)…even in a parking lot (read on)!

But thanks to tonight’s looming deluge, Open Roof Festival organizers announced at 6 p.m. this evening that the opening-night outdoor screening ($15 per ticket; see schedule below) would be moved indoors. Conveniently, the building beside the lot houses a 250-person industrial event space, complete with a permanent screen, a wee stage and washrooms…. In. A. Brewery.

Amsterdam's event space

Open Roof screens films rain or shine. If there’s a high chance of showers, the fest moves into the Amsterdam Brewing Company’s event space, which has a permanent screen, washrooms and a 250-person capacity.

The Amsterdam Brewing Company, that is. Kicking off its third season tonight, the awesome outdoor summer-long music and film fest that is Open Roof is basically a weekly Thursday night party in the Amsterdam Brewing Company’s parking lot, which can hold more than 600 people (capacity is one of many reasons to wish for good weather).

But this empty parking lot, a sunken space ringed with grass and covered with gravel, is transformed as night falls and festival goers pour in, under the stars, with the CN Tower and illuminated downtown skyscrapers creating a beautiful backdrop.

Pretty cool, eh?

(The area does, in fact, get quite cool at night, since it’s a couple of blocks from the lake, so sweaters, jackets and the like are a must.)

Cooler still are the Canadian indie bands opening each of the summer-long festival’s 10 films (check out the list of both below). That’s right! Ticket holders enter at 7:30 p.m., just in time to catch the band at 8 p.m. as they perform on the ground right in front of the screen. How music-fest authentic, with bands within arm’s reach!

And what’s a music (and film) fest without cold beer and flavourful food? (I’m thinking about my beloved Hillside and its support of local food vendors varying from vegetarian to ethnic to meat lover to baked goods to organic ice cream!)

Toronto’s first craft brewery, Amsterdam Brewing Company, is the home of the Open Roof Festival.

Given that Open Roof takes place on Amsterdam Brewing Company property, beer from Toronto’s first craft brewery abounds. Be aware that you must purchase drink tickets and can only consume alcohol bought on the microbrewery’s lot. As the brewery store will be open till 11 p.m., beer can be bought at the shop, but it cannot be brought onto the festival grounds, since no outside beverages or food are allowed. Absolutely no glass containers, either.

Pair your drinks (nonalcoholic beverages will be available, too) with the featured local food vendor suited to that movie’s theme. Hungry patrons at this week’s film, Marley, about Jamaican musician Bob Marley, were treated to Jamaican food. Yum!

And what really gets me excited about the fest is that Cycle Toronto (formerly known as the Toronto Cyclists Union) is offering free bike valet parking on site! Majorly handy, since there’s little bike parking at the brewery. Plus, it encourages cycling to the event. Heart.

Now, if you’re spending summer in the city, doesn’t the Open Roof Festival sound like a fun Thursday night out in Toronto? Live music, indie films, beer, food and bikes! I’m so there. Really. I’m a volunteer!

Bad: the Open Roof Festival is beside the Gardiner. Good: the accessible ramp up to the Amsterdam’s washrooms is on the left side of the brewery.

___________________________________________________________________

What: Open Roof Festival, a music and fest celebrating bands and films.
When: Thursdays all summer long (June 21 to Aug. 23, 2012). Doors open at 7:30 p.m.; the band plays at 8 p.m. and the film screens at 9 p.m.
Cost: $15 per film. See TIP below about purchasing tickets. 
Where: The Amsterdam Brewing Company parking lot. It’s a tad out of the way at 21 Bathurst Street, but still accessible by streetcar, bike and foot. The parking lot, BTW, won’t be used as a parking lot, so bike, walk or TTC it. 
Bonus: There’s a free valet bike parking! Thanks, Cycle Toronto!
TIP: Don’t fret if tickets sell out in advance. Organizers limit preshow sales in case the film screens indoors, but they’ll still release tickets the day of.

Films + bands: 
June 21  >  Marley  >  performance by Friendlyness & the Human Rights
June 28  >  Charles Bradley Soul of America  >  performance by Army Girls
July 5  >   Fat Kid Rules The World  >  performance by The Magic
July 12  >  China Heavyweight  >  performance by The Little Black Dress
July 19  >  Herman’s House  >  performance by Stacey Bulmer
July 26  >  Undefeated  >  performance by Run with the Kittens
August 2  >  Hysteria  >  performance by Eucalyptus
August 9  >  Indie Game  >  performance by Parlovr
August 16  >  Moonrise Kingdom  >  performance by Dusted
August 23  >  Beasts of the Southern Wild  >  performance by Bruce Peninsula

___________________________________________________________________

Think the outdoor cinema is the coolest? Read all about these other outdoor film screenings in Toronto:
TIFF’s Outdoor Cinema Takes Over David Pecaut Square 
The Toronto Port Authority’s Cool Sail-in Cinema Makes Waves

camino albergues: where to stay between león and ponferrada

20 Sunday May 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in camino, outdoors, spain, travel

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A reader, Laura, recently asked about albergues I’d stayed at between León and Santiago when I walked the Camino last year. I’d advised her that my best accommodation tip would be to make friends with some German pilgrims!

It’s true! All of the German pilgrims I met (and there were lots of them!) had the best guidebooks, only available in German, of course, and updated every year, which means they’ve the inside scoop on albergues. The three Germans I walked part of the Way with each had the same yellow guidebook that was pocket size but chockfull of info.

My little Michelin book (at left) was only a year old and already out of date, with some of the listed albergues closed, but it was still handy for hostels and especially for distances and altitudes.

What I realized walking the Camino is that you need to be flexible, because many lovely little albergues pop up in the middle of nowhere and aren’t in any guidebooks. While others in the books, even in those beloved yellow German Camino guidebooks, are no more.

So here’s where I stayed and where I wish I’d stayed on the Way.  

LEÓN

Albergue: The Nuns’ Hostel, a.k.a. Albergue del Monasterio des las Benedictinas, or Santa Maria de Carbajal (Plaza Santa María del Camino).
No. of Beds: Approx. 56 beds. 2 sparse dorms, housing about 14 bunkbeds in each.
Washrooms: A few showerstalls (with curtains), toilets and sinks. Separate for men and women.
Vibe: Austere. It is a hostel in a convent, after all, run by the Benedictine Sisters. There’s a small patio with a few tables in the tiny courtyard near the entry, and a larger dining area above the dorms. I never went to the main dining area, so I’m not sure if there’s a kitchen; I suppose there’s one, however, because my friend had yogurt stashed in there.
Curfew: 9:30 p.m., a half hour before most albergues. Keep in mind that León only starts to come to life at that time, so if you want to enjoy the nightlife, a hotel would be a better choice.
Cost: 5 €.
Bonus: If you’re so inclined, you can join the nuns for mass or vespers. Remember to withdraw cash from an ATM here, because you won’t find another ATM till Ponferrada (Molinesca may have one, but I didn’t notice).


ASTORGA

Albergue: As you can tell from the pic, Albergue de Peregrinos San Javier (Calle Portería 6; tel. 987 618 532/ 679 154 383; alberguesanjavier [at] hotmail [dot] com) is very near the cathedral, but I walked all over town before finding it! It’s on the street off the small parking lot to the left of the cathedral.
No. of Beds: 110 beds in a large dorm with lots of wooden posts and beams, which somehow adds warmth to all those the bunkbeds.
Washrooms: One has a few showerstalls, and another has a few toilets.
Courtyard: Yes, a pretty little courtyard where you can line-dry laundry.
Vibe: Cosy log cabin. A spacious open-concept kitchen/dining area with a sunken lounge area piled high with comfy cushions and loads of books. A second dining area off the kitchen. Astorga is famous for macarons, and I can imagine pilgrims huddled around the tables, munching on the yummy goodness. (I preferred to taste the town’s treats while sitting on a bench across the cathedral, but I spent every sec I could outdoors, soaking up the Spanish sunshine!)
Curfew: 10 p.m.
Cost: 8 €.
Bonus: Pilgrims staying at San Javier get a coupon for 2 euros off the pilgrims’ menu at the stunning Hotel Gaudi (that means that guests of the hotel actually pay 2 euros more for the pilgrims’ menu than guests of the hostel do! The Hotel Gaudi menu is 14 euros regularly).

RABANAL DEL CAMINO

Albergue: Rabanal la Senda is the first stone building on the left when you walk into the village, right on the Camino.
No. of beds: I can’t remember how many beds there are, but there are 3 types of rooms on the 2 floors of this converted house: the more beds per room, the cheaper the rate. Note that the two smaller rooms upstairs have fewer beds (3 or 4 bunkbeds) because the rooms are sooo small. The two 5-bunkbed rooms on the main floor are nice and roomy.
Blankets: Yes. Blankets are a must here, with the stone interior walls of the downstairs dorms making the rooms freezing at night. Or at least I was freezing, understandable as there was frost on the grass outside in the morning.
Cyclists: Cyclists are welcome, and you can see some in the photo above! Bike storage is in a shelter across the road.
Washrooms: There’s a modern, spacious unisex washroom on the main floor (complete with shower, toilet and sink). Two less modern, unisex washrooms are upstairs, but be warned: they’re open to each other via a gap at the top of the dividing wall.
Vibe: Cosy like a home, with 2 dorms and a washroom downstairs and 2 small dorms, 2 washrooms, a kitchen and a dining area upstairs. The friendly guy who runs it speaks “a little English” (really! he has a sign on the door that says that) and lives in another town. The large dining room has three wooden tables topped with tablecloths and wildflowers, and a fireplace, a coin-operated computer and a massage chair. The quaint kitchen is just big enough to squeeze 3 people in it, and overlooks the yard across the road.
Cost: 5 €.
Bonus: Rabanal is small, but there are a couple of restaurants (one’s beside the albergue) and a tiny grocery (it closes for siesta). This albergue is homey, with the cosy kitchen and dining area upstairs and the patio tables out front, where you can sit and watch the pilgrims walk by. It’s also a bike-friendly albergue, with a large wooden bike shelter/laundry room next to the picnic area, chaise longues and laundry line on the lawn across the road. My friend and I bought foodstuff at the grocery, cooked up some pasta in the kitchen, then ate it at the picnic table outside, enjoying the last rays before sunset.

FONCEBADÓN

I didn’t stay in Foncebadón, as it was too close to Rabanal (the 5.6 kilometre steep climb up Montes de León from Rabanal makes it feel like it’s more than that!). Most of Foncebadon is in ruins and looks like a ghost town (notice the rubble in the photo), but there are a couple of hippie albergues/restaurants that bring it to life. I stopped at this café for a snack (think homemade energy bars and self-serve coffee), and discovered the owners run an albergue in the back! Sweet!
Albergue: You can’t miss Albergue Monte Irago. There’s only one road – the Camino – going through the village, and the albergue was the first intact building we came upon on the left side of the road. The owners are hoping to rebuild Foncebadón, so here’s hoping!
No. of beds: 35.
Washrooms: As I didn’t stay here, I’m not sure how many there are.
Vibe: The hippie vibe of the café extends to the albergue! As soon as I found out they had accommodation, I so wished I’d stayed here instead of Rabanal, just because the vibe was so funky and French-like.
Curfew: 10 p.m.
Cost: Around 5 €.
Bonus: The cafe is so warm and friendly and kinda French granola, and the owners were the same  –  they were joking around with me the entire time I was there, letting me stamp my pilgrims’ passport myself and tossing me a rag to wipe up the coffee I’d spilled, even teasing that I was on staff!


EL ACEBO

Again, I didn’t stay in Acebo, but it was such a pretty little village, all done up in flowers, and one albergue even had chaise longues on a pretty patio. I was tempted to stay here had my feet needed to stop. Alas, I only took a washroom and water break in Acebo, resting at La Posado del Pelegrino, the first bar I came across.


RIEGO DE AMBROS 

Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of the albergue, as my camera battery died and I couldn’t charge it, since I’d forgotten my plug adapter in the wall at San Javier, back in Astorga. This village is near the base of the mountain, which means the town is on a slope. There’s no store, and the 1 restaurant is at the far end of town, which means the walk back to the albergue is uphill.
Albergue: Albergue de Riego de Ambros is a nondescript building with giant wooden doors, on the main road and to the left of the fountain.
No. of beds: 50. There are 2 bunkbeds in each little cubby room, with sliding doors at both ends of the room for privacy, plus shelves (both inside and outside the room).
Blankets: Yes.
Washrooms: At the back of the sleeping area, there are mens’ and a women’s washrooms, but they only have one toilet (with a door), one shower (closed off) and one sink in each. Despite the lack of facilities and given that 50 pilgrims could stay here, there never was a line for the washrooms!
Backyard: There’s a pretty treed yard that gets lots of sun, perfect for stretching out on the grass or line-drying your laundry at the sink outside. A few tables and chairs are clustered on a small patio off the kitchen/dining area, which is well equipped with spices, olive oil and sea salt. Given the nice setting, it’s a shame there’s no store in town, but if you’ve foodstuff in your pack, it’d be a cosy albergue to cook dinner and lounge in the dining area or picnic outside in the sun.
Vibe: The sleeping area is rather modern and almost Scandinavian in feel, with the wooden sliding doors and cubbies. There’s a spot at the front of the sleeping area for everyone to leave their boots or shoes, and some comfy clubchairs by the floor-to-ceiling windows. The kitchen and dining area, by contrast, are more rustic, and the treed courtyard is charming.
Cost: 5 €.
Curfew: 10:30 p.m. Later than most albergues, but there’s nothing much to do in this village. I climbed up on the stone wall in the backyard to watch the sun set around 10 p.m.; most pilgrims were asleep before 9 p.m.
Bonus: This albergue gets lots of light thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding glass doors.


MOLINASECA

I really wish my camera battery hadn’t died and I hadn’t stupidly left my adapter at the hostel in Astorga, because Molinaseca is one seriously picturesque town. If I’d been able to take a picture as I crossed the stone bridge into town, I swear I’d have turned it into a postcard. At the base of Montes de León, Molinaseca is a sight for sore eyes and feet, resembling a Swiss village, albeit with some touristy shops and lots of restaurants/cafes and grocery stores. Almost every pilgrim stops at the first café and languidly savours a café con leche and croissant on the large patio beside the Meruelo River. Though it’s not even 5 kilometres from Riego de Ambros, I was mighty tempted to call it a short day and just chill here.


PONFERRADA 

Hotel: I’m including Hotel Los Templarios (calle Flórez Osorio 3; tel. 987 411 484) because sometimes you just want to splurge on a good night’s sleep at a hotel. 
No. of beds: Aha! We ditched the dorm for one night, choosing to stay in comfy beds and enjoy hot showers/baths and, better yet, a snore-free sleep!
Blankets: You betcha! I was toasty under the covers.
Washrooms: Of course! A blissful tub full of hot water, real towels, and a toilet that was just steps from my bed was well worth the extra euros.
Vibe: It’s not high end, but it was clean and comfy, and as you can see from the photos, there’s a juliet balcony and glass doors – and they overlook some rooftops and the clock tower. There are 2 computers off the lobby, but the connection is seriously slow.
Curfew: Of course not! And so I stayed out late to take pics.
Cost: 60 € for a room with 2 double beds.
Bonus: As opposed to the lone albergue, which is in a parking lot on the outskirts of the city, Los Templarios is just off the main square. As you walk toward the tower and you get to this spot, look down the alley to your left, and you’ll see the hotel’s flags. Not far from the Templar Castle, the hotel is also close to restaurants, supermarkets, boutiques, a park, 2 outdoor outfitters (I bought my coveted Smartwool long-sleeve shirt at the smaller one, Fitzroy), and a little small-appliances shop that carries plug adapters for about 1,5 euros apiece! Hence, I was able to charge my battery and take pics again! Woohoo!

This is the first part of a 5-part series on albergues between León and Santiago. Read Part 2 here!
____________________________________________________________

For more on my Camino, check out:
Camino Albergues: Where to Stay Between Ponferrada and Triacastela
León, Spain: My First Steps on the Camino de Santiago
Walking the Camino, Day 2: León, Spain
The Way of the Lightweight Backpacker

walking the camino, day 2: león, spain

19 Saturday May 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

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OK, I admit it. My first full day on the Camino de Santiago was a cheat day.

After spending an entire day flying from Toronto to Paris to Madrid and then bussing it 5 hours from Madrid to León, I was knackered on arrival, so relaxing my first night was a must. But my friend Leanne, whom I’d flown there to meet, had the brilliant idea of taking the bus 50 kilometres from León to Astorga, saving us a day of walking and giving me a day to get over my jetlag.

Now, believe me when I say I was keen on setting out on foot on Day 2, as I was determined to do the full 300 kilometres from León to Santiago de Compostela. But I also was wiped from the flights and bus ride, so I wasn’t about to fight Leanne about not walking outta León à pied.

Despite deeming it our lazy day, we still were in pilgrim mode, waking up at the crack of dawn. LESSON 2: Whether you want to or not, you’ll wake up before sunrise, when all the other pilgrims in your dorm stop snoring and start rustling their sleeping bags, getting dressed and chatting to their friends. If you’re blessed with super-awesome earplugs, you might block out the noise enough so you can sleep in till 7 or 7:30 a.m. But by 8 a.m., the albergue manager will flick the lights on and come barging through your dorm yelling “Buen Camino!” to signal it’s time you hit the road!

The lovely manager at the Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas (Santa Maria de Carabajal) did that around 6 a.m.! By then, most of the 28-some people in my mixed dorm had fled to the trail, leaving me and Leanne behind to eat our humble breakfast of yogurt, milk and leftover snacks from my flights. It gave me time to snap pics of the convent entry, mainly the bin of walking sticks (an albergue entryway staple) and the heavy wood doors.

Day 2 being my first real Camino day, I couldn’t resist a shot of Leanne’s backpack, complete with requisite pilgrim’s shell featuring the cross of St. James. At the time, I was a tad jealous that I didn’t have that same shell, but it’s so ubiquitous on the Camino, it has a massmarket feel to it and I’m glad I waited to find the right shell for me.

And I just noticed now that there’s a yellow Camino arrow on the ground, pointing to the convent door (see photo above)! In fact, there are 2 arrows (see below), just to make sure pilgrims don’t walk right past the Nuns’ Hostel.

Not spotting the yellow arrows was something I did quite well those first few days on the Camino. You’d think, because they’re everywhere, it’s something you’d notice upon first glance. But it really does take some getting used to, the looking for the yellow arrows that direct you where to walk.

LESSON 3: The Camino is all about intuition. Whether it’s learning to spot the yellow arrows or understanding the trail so you know where to go even when there isn’t an arrow in sight, walking the Camino is about being in tune with your surroundings. It’s finding your own way of walking – how fast or slow your pace is, how often and when and where you take breaks (and why! it could be just to take in the views from a mountaintop!), which towns or villages you want to sleep in, where and what you want to eat.

There’s a common saying among pilgrims: everyone has their own way of walking.

Some people think pilgrims need to suffer a bit – painful blistered feet will attest to that. Others think that pilgrims walk for many reasons and each has their own way, and lest you judge the pilgrim who stays in fancy hotels or takes cabs or buses or has their bags shuttled from hostel to hostel.

When I started out, I didn’t think much about either camp. I was there to walk with a friend, experience a different culture and landscape, and take a pause from everyday life. So my first full day on the Camino was indeed a lazy day, and it began with a stroll from the convent to León’s famous cathedral.

Steps from the convent is this little square. The night before, it was bustling with the dinner crowd chatting away at cafe tables in spite of the light rain. 

Weathered gargoyles, still intricately detailed despite their decay, embellished the church exterior.

Playing peekaboo: a pigeon who stuffed himself into a wee opening in the church wall! 

A wrought-iron juliet balcony filled with red geraniums – what’s more Mediterranean than that? 

A lingering symbol from Palm Sunday, dried palm leaves strewn across balconies was a common sight in León in May.

Up until that morning, I hadn’t really thought of myself as a pilgrim, and even though I’d dined and shared a dorm with pilgrims, I hadn’t seen one (aside from Leanne) in full form. By 8 a.m., there were still some stragglers making their way through León, and so I had my first glimpse of pilgrims.

As we approached the cathedral, I spotted my first shells! There’s a pedestrian-only street in León that’s embedded with bronze shells, so pilgrims making their way to the cathedral walk over the pilgrims’ symbol.

The pedestrian street also features bronze pilgrims’ footprints surrounded by stone mosaics. I was sincerely stunned by the sublime sight of this footprint as I took my first steps as a pilgrim.

The cathedral was still closed when we got there, so we wandered a bit more, admiring the unusual street art by this stone archway.

I also saw my first giant stork, which I actually thought was art because it was sooo large! Those storks are everywhere on this stretch of the Camino, building their ginormous nests on church steeples. I honestly couldn’t stop taking pictures of each stork I saw – that’s how awed I was by their size.

And when we finally got back round to cathedral, I actually forgot to take pictures! I think I wasn’t quite clueing in to the age of the cathedral, but I was awestruck by the gothic architecture and 1,800-square metres of stained glass windows.

 After poking around the cathedral, we had our third breakfast of the day. Our first was at the albergue, our second was on a bench beside the cathedral, when we were waiting for it to open, and our third was at a café. This habit of having multiple breakfasts is a Camino thing, as pilgrims start out so early and need lots of fuel, plus it’s always a treat to chill at a café.

But on our way to the café, we spotted this awesome bike share service. It’s funny, but I was more floored by the bikes than I was by the cathedral. I honestly don’t know much about the bike share program, except we found out from a gentleman there that it’s free and only for residents of that neighbourhood. Free bike share! We so need that in Toronto!

So much activity, and it was only about 10:30 a.m.! For a lazy day, we sure packed in a lot in the morning. After having our croissants and cafe con leche at a cafe, we headed to the bus station to catch a bus to Astorga. I sure appreciated the nap on the bus, and woke up ready to explore the city known for it’s Gaudi architecture as much as it is for its macarons: Astorga!

For that, you must read on!

___________________________________________________________

And for more on my Camino, check out:
Leon, Spain: My First Steps on the Camino de Santiago
Camino Albergues: Where to Stay Between León and Ponferrada, Spain
The Way of the Lightweight Backpacker

león, spain: my first steps on the camino de santiago

13 Sunday May 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, travel

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albergue del monasterio des las benedictinas leon spainL, benedictine nuns convent hostel leon spain, benedictine nuns convent leon spain, benedictine sisters convent, benedictine sisters leon camino, benedictine sisters leon spain, bronze pilgrim footprint leon spain camino, camino day one, camino de santiago, camino leon convent hostel, camino leon hostel, camino leon spain, camino leon to santiago, convent hostel leon spain, nuns' pilgrims hostel leon spain camino, santa maria de carbajal leon spain, way of st. james.

A year ago today, I took my first sun-dappled steps on the Camino de Santiago. Though I’d wanted to walk the entire 780 kilometres of the Way of St. James, I only had 3 weeks off between production periods (“production” is the crunch time before a magazine goes to print), so I had just enough time to walk the final – and most scenic – 300 kilometres of the Camino as well as bus it to Fisterra, the coastal town once thought to be the most western point in Europe and where many pilgrims continue after their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

And since the impetus to walk the Camino was to meet my friend Leanne, who’d started walking in Roncesvalles, we had to coordinate our schedules to rendezvous in León, about 300 kilometres from Santiago.

My first night in León was a gentle introduction to life on the Way.

Leanne met me at the bus station with a big grin on her face. She’d recently parted ways with pilgrims she’d been walking with since Roncesvalles, and she’d arrived in León a day ahead of me, so she’d spend the day resting her legs, napping. Siesta, I soon learned, was a staple of Leanne’s daily routine! That would later prove to be contentious, as I tend to shun naps when travelling, unless it’s on a mountaintop or beach.

But my first official day on the Camino was meant to be a day to relax and slowly settle into the Way. We chilled in a parkette, snapping pics of the flowers and frolicking kids, and munching on macarons I’d bought that morning at the Ladurée in Charles de Gaulle (that airport is like a mini-Paris, with a Ladurée, a Paul, a Maison du Chocolat!).

Then we stopped at a grocery store to pick up some yogurt and milk for breakfast the next day, and dropped my backpack off at the Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas (a.k.a. Santa Maria de Carbajal), a convent hostel!

If it weren’t for Leanne, I probably would have gotten lost on my way to the convent. There were street signs minutes away, but from the outside, the convent itself is pretty nondescript.

Fortunately, Leanne had told the sisters that I was flying in from Toronto to meet her in León, so they’d saved a bed for me. Otherwise, I would’ve been sleeping on a mattress on the floor. Albergues don’t turn pilgrims away, but if there are no more beds left, they simply provide a skimpy mattress to sleep on. (A few days later in Cacabelos, I was thisclose to sleeping on a mattress outdoors, arriving at the old church/hostel a mere minute before the poor fella after me who got the mattress!)

After getting my pilgrim’s passport and having a lovely little chat en français about the fact that I’d be spending my birthday walking the Camino, I then got a tour of the facilities (2 cramped dorms with a good 28 beds in each, and a set of washrooms in between the dorms) and set up my top bunk with my sleeping bag, ear plugs, alarm and a scarf to wrap around my head as a makeshift eye mask.

Then Leanne and I went out in search of a nearby resto so I could dine on my first pilgrim’s menu: fish and fried potatoes sprinkled with paprika, preceded by an appetizer of buttery white asparagus served the Spanish way, with a dollop of mayonnaise. Notice the cute little balsamic vinegar shell motif!

The thing about dining on the Camino is that every restaurant on the Camino caters to the tight pilgrim budget by offering a 3-course dinner menu for 10 euros:
• insalata mixte (a mixed green salad with tomatoes and onions) or soup,
• an entrée usually of fish or chicken or eggs with fries,
• a dessert, often fruit, yogurt or a tart (tarta de Santiago, an almond tart, is common once you enter the province of Galicia and get closer to Santiago),
• a carafe of house wine or a bottle of water.

And so my first dinner on the Camino was rather simple and a wee less colourful compared to my Italian-themed dinner the night before on my Air France flight. Pasta with smoked salmon as the starter, cheese, unlimited demi-baguette and whipped butter, pasta with a tomato and Merlot sauce, banana bread, and a vast selection of juice made for a yummy in-flight meal. And I didn’t see another vibrant repas like this one till I got to Santiago!

Despite my griping about the lack of colourful veggies, the pilgrim’s menu is certainly a nifty way to dine on a budget, but there were only so many menus I could take, and I soon found that ordering a main off the regular menu was cheaper, filling and a delectable variation of the standard pilgrim meal. Another option, one my friend tended to often, was to cook pasta at the albergue, buying groceries at a shop or using up veggies and dry noodles left behind by previous pilgrims. As pilgrims don’t like to add unnecessary weight to their backpacks, they usually leave leftovers behind for those that follow.

As is the pilgrim’s life when staying at an albergue, my first night on the Way was an early night. The convent closed around 9:30 p.m., which is a good half hour after before most albergues lock their doors. It was possible to slip into the mass after our dinner, but the chapel was small and it seemed a bit intrusive, so we ducked into the hostel and readied for our early start the next day.

Of course, almost all the pilgrims were snoring and tucked into their bunkbeds when we crawled in at curfew. Good thing I had my earplugs handy!

LESSON 1: Earplugs are a MUST!!! It’s inevitable that you’ll be in a dorm full of snorers, and the loudest snorer will be in the bunk beside you. Trust me on this!

_____________________________________________________________

What: Camino de Santiago, Day 1
Where: León, Spain
Accommodation: Albergue del Monasterio de las Benedictinas, a.k.a. Santa Maria de Carbajal or the Nuns’ hostel, Plaza Santa María del Camino, 24005, León, Spain. It’s a few blocks from the bus station and not far from the cathedral. The only catch with staying at the convent is that curfew is at 9:30 p.m., and León is only starting to come alive at that time, so if you want to experience León nightlife, best to stay at a hotel.
Cost: The hostel rate is 5 euros a night,  with the understanding that pilgrims only stay 1 night. If it’s your first night on the Camino, accommodation is paid by donation.
Must-see: The cathedral is stunning. And see it I day the next morning!

_____________________________________________________________

For more on my Camino, check out:
Walking the Camino, Day 2: León, Spain
Camino Albergues: Where to Stay Between León and Ponferrada, Spain
The Way of the Lightweight Backpacker

travel and escape: snorkelling costa rica’s cano island

25 Sunday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

cano island, central america, corcovado national park, costa rica, drake bay, monkeys costa rica, pirate cove costa rica, snorkelling cano island, snorkelling costa rica, travel and escape, travel+escape

Yay! Part 3 of my three-part series on Costa Rica for the Travel+Escape channel’s website is live! And so far, my post about snorkelling the waters near Cano Island is the most popular of the three blog posts. Perhaps people relate to my fear of open water…and the slimy stuff in that water. Or maybe people like reading about someone trying to overcome that fear. Probably it’s the story about how I snorkelled with sharks! Sorta.

Part 2 of the Travel+Escape series was about my two daytrips to Corcovado National Park, which was monkey paradise!

And Part 1, which I’d posted about before, was about how I forged a crocodile-infested river in Drake Bay to get to the deserted beach on the other side. Not really. It was more about how I’d have to wait for low tide to cross the river near the ocean because I didn’t want to meet the caimans lurking in the calmer water down the river. And how having to wait for the tides taught me to slow down and just enjoy doing nothing.

__________________________________________________________

It's a jungle out there!

Read more about my trek to Costa Rica:
It’s a Jungle Out There!     Hola, Drake Bay
Breakfast with a Toucan
   Snorkelling with Sharks 
Lunch with a Lizard
Costa Rica, Te Extraño     
Answering the Call of the Wild in Costa Rica

Horseback Riding Along the Jungle Trails of Drake Bay, Costa Rica

how to lock your bicycle securely to prevent bike theft

25 Sunday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in bike, outdoors

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

best bike locks, bike gear, bike safety, bike stand, bike theft prevention, bike theft toronto, biking toronto, double bike lock, double locking your bike, lucerne bikes, post and ring, stealing bike toronto, toronto, toronto star, toronto star bike theft

Stealing a bike in Toronto is a cinch, even in broad daylight, according to a recent Toronto Star article that proves bike theft in Toronto goes unreported – even unnoticed – in this city of cyclists and apathetic onlookers. Scary thought.

Cycling in Toronto is all about improving infrastructure, of course, but, sadly, it’s also about bike theft prevention. That’s why I try to lock my bike to a fixed object (one of the City of Toronto’s awesome post-and-ring bike stands), using one of the best bike locks on the market (the Kryptonite New York Standard U-lock), so I thought I was adept at outwitting bicycle thieves. I was wrong.

As was revealed to me the other night, bike theft in Toronto truly runs rampant: someone tried to steal my bike last week, after I’d stupidly locked it to a movable bike stand in a poorly lit, little trafficked corner, and the wannabe thief flipped over the stand and my bike (see photo above)! The thief (or thieves?) was likely trying to snake my bike along the stand and off the open end, but I’d locked my bike so tight, it wasn’t budging.

Lesson learned: If you lock your bike properly, it will deter thieves trying to steal it. And so, here are my 6 tips for locking your bike.

1. Buy the best bike lock you can afford.

Locks don’t prevent bike thieves from stealing bikes – locks deter thieves from stealing bikes. Thieves want to grab and go, so they won’t risk being seen by onlookers during the precious minutes it will take to pick a top-notch lock, so invest in the best.

The best is the Kryptonite New York Standard U-lock. I own two!!! Here’s why.

  • Makers of the world’s best bike locks, Kryptonite rates the New York Standard U-lock an 11 out of 12 on its bicycle security scale.
  • The 16 mm steel shackle is a tough nut to crack, even with bolt cutters.
  • The double deadbolt locking mechanism is pretty pickproof.
  • It’s the perfect size to snugly fit around a bike stand and a seat post and rear wheel. The Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini lock is too small and only fits around a stand and seat post. Depending on your bike, the Kryptonite New York MC lock may be too long, which will create a gap between your bike and the stand, inviting thieves to wedge a lever in the gap to pry the lock apart.
  • The lock is darn heavy and large. That’s what makes it cumbersome to carry, but that’s also what keeps thieves moving on to the next bike – a bike that is secured with a lock that’s much easier to cut through or pick than yours is.

2. Buy a second locking device (yes, you DO need 2 locks!).

Proper bike theft prevention means making your bike as difficult to steal as possible.
Which is why I always use 2 locking devices: a Kryptonite looped cable combined with my Kryptonite New York U-lock. (When I’m really paranoid about protecting my bike, I use both of my New York locks!)

Since a thief will always try to steal a bike that can easily be taken in seconds, rather than minutes, the trick to protection is using multiple locks. Don’t be lazy about this. Two locking devices are better than one.

3. Lock your bike to a fixed object.

Better yet, lock your bike to a fixed bike stand. Always. I will scour Toronto’s streets, looking for one of 16,000 post-and-ring stands to lock my bike to, because the stands are securely cemented to the sidewalk and I’m able to lock both the wheels and the frame to the pole. They are much sturdier than a wimpy sign post, which I only use when desperate during quick daytime stops.

Remember: a movable object can be moved, even if your bike is locked to it. See the first photo if you don’t believe me. But you do, so let’s move on, shall we?

4. Lock your bike wheels AND your bike frame to a bike stand.
The keyword here is bike: lock your bike to itself as well as a fixed stand.
Double locking your bike means that if a thief steals your bike by breaking the bike stand, the thief will not be able to ride off with your bike if your wheels are locked to your frame. And it’d be mighty suspicious to carry a fully locked bike down the street, no?

Here are 5 steps for securely locking your bike with your U-lock and a looped cable (see photo above while following the instructions below).

  • Place your bike – gears facing out – against a fixed stand.
  • Loop one end of the cable through the front wheel and around the down tube and stand; thread one end of the cable through the other.
  • Don’t leave space for bolt cutters to fit in the gap. If you need to, wrap the cable twice around the seat post, the wheel or both.
  • Fit the U-lock around the bike stand, seat tube and rear wheel. (If you can only fit the U-lock around the bike stand and seat tube, so be it.)
  • Thread one U-lock end through the free cable loop, and lock the lock!

Alternative 1: Loop the cable through the front wheel and down tube twice, securing the U-lock to both looped ends.
Alternative 2: Secure the front wheel with another U-lock or a cable lock instead of a looped cable.

5. Pick a highly visible, well-lit area.
The easiest way to deter someone from stealing your bike? Lock your bike in a highly visible area, as the thief won’t want to be seen stealing. The best spot would be beside a street lamp on a busy sidewalk.

Look for a public place with these 4 must-haves.

  • Lots of pedestrian traffic.
  • Lots of stationary people (people lingering, sitting on a patio or by a window or on a bench – people who might notice your bike and that a stranger is eyeing or handling it).
  • Lots of vehicular traffic.
  • Lots of light, especially at night (streetlights are your friends).

The other night (see the first photo), I locked my bike in a place blocked off by a lot of construction, where there was little vehicular and pedestrian traffic, in a dark corner between two business towers that had closed for the night. And it was a movable stand. All “don’ts”!!! The only “do” I got right was locking my bike properly with 2 locking devices – that’s what saved my bike from being stolen. Nearby, however, were 3 other stands overflowing with bikes, which brings us to Tip 6: There’s safety in numbers. Or at least there should be.

6. Prevent theft by locking your bike with lots of other bikes.
This photo I took of bikes in Lucerne, Switzerland, shows how a bike stand to bike thieves is like a candy store to a kid. However, there actually is safety in numbers when it comes to protecting your bike from theft: if your bike is locked securely, it’s safer with a group of bikes that aren’t locked properly than it is parked by itself.

As I’ve stated all along, bike thieves want to make a quick getaway more than they want to steal an expensive bike. As obvious as that sounds, I used to think it was the other way around.

So remember: if there are tons of bikes in the vicinity, they’ll always try to steal the bike that is the easiest (read: quickest) to grab. Make sure that’s not your bike!

__________________________________________________________

For more on bike safety, check out…
Girly Gear to Light Up Your Ride

Use Your Knog(gin): Ride With a Bright Bike Light 
I Heart My TV Sucks Ride Your Bike Bumper Sticker
‘Cause I Love My Brain, I Want a Nutcase Helmet
Simi Mini Dots Nutcase Helmet Fit for Minnie Mouse
Ring My Bell: Ciao Bello to My Public Bike Bell, Federico! 

venturing into the wild side of costa rica

09 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

central america, corcovado, costa rica, drake bay, osa peninsula, travel and tourism, travel+escape

Voilà! My first blog post for the Travel+Escape channel’s website is up! Click here to find out just how much fun I had forging a croc-invested river to get to the picturesque beach on the other side. It’s Part 1 of a three-part series on my adventures in Costa Rica’s remote Drake Bay, on the Osa Peninsula. Part 2, about my close encounters with wild animals in the lush jungles of Corcovado National Park, goes live Tuesday, March 13! Don’t forget to check out the posts!

__________________________________________________________

Costa Rica, Te Extraño

Read more about my trek into wilds of Costa Rica:
It’s a Jungle Out There!     Hola, Drake Bay
Breakfast with a Toucan
   Snorkelling with Sharks 
Lunch with a Lizard
Costa Rica, Te Extraño 
Horseback Riding Along the Jungle Trails of Drake Bay, Costa Rica  
Answering the Call of the Wild in Costa Rica



skating in the rain at city hall

08 Thursday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in architecture, outdoors, photography

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

canada, city hall, ice rink, skating, toronto

Forget about singing in the rain. Ice skating in the rain at Nathan Philips Square is so much cooler! And with the warm, wet weather we’ve been having this winter’s end in Toronto, ice skating through puddles is really the only way to get around our popular outdoor rinks. Popular, at least, when the ice is frozen. Last night, however, only a handful of skaters laced up their ice skates to enjoy the slick surface at the Nathan Phillips Square rink, which made for a picturesque reflecting pool with Old City Hall in the background and space-agey Toronto City Hall, or New City Hall (below), lighting up the night just steps away.

__________________________________________________________

What: Night skating at Nathan Phillips Square
Where: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
When: Wednesday, March 7, 2012, was the last good skating day of the season. Check the city’s outdoor rinks status page for details on which outdoor rinks are operational till March 11.
Caveat: With the Zambonis retired till next year, the ice surface maybe be uneven from melting and refreezing.

Cost: FREE if you have your own skates; rentals are closed for the season.
Why: With this wonky weather, the rinks are relatively empty, so you can have the rink to yourself for a relaxing night skate to say bye to winter!

Want to see Nathan Phillips
Square packed with skaters
during the day? Check out…
Winter Solstice
(Or Let’s Skate, Toronto)


knuk & bonhomme: quebec city winter carnival mascots

03 Saturday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

bonhomme, canada, carnaval, carnaval de quebec, carnival, costume, knuk, quebec, winter

It’s a Carnaval de Québec knuk! That is, one of the playful sidekicks of Bonhomme Carnaval, the Quebec Winter Carnival’s snowman mascot. Spotting Bonhomme and his knuks is one of the things to do in Quebec City during the winter carnival. Marching through the historic part of Quebec City, this wee one is accompanied by his mom while his li’l sis, dressed up as Bonhomme himself (complete with traditional red toque, sash tied at the waist, and head-to-toe white), is carried by Dad till she agrees to tag along. Oh my gosh, I want to hug them both! Believe me, the little Knuk and Bonhomme were just as adorable in person as I was chasing after them walking to the Quebec Winter Carnival festivities on the Plains of Abraham. Too. Cute. For. Words.

__________________________________________________________

What: Le Carnaval de Québec (the Quebec Winter Carnival)
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. Activities are concentrated in Old Quebec (the historic Old Town), specifically on the sprawling Plains of Abraham.
When: The 59th edition of the modern incarnation of the carnival runs February 1-17, 2013. Yes, that’s a year away, but it pays to be prepared!
Cost: A Bonhomme Effigy (a figurine of Bonhomme) is required for most of the 300-plus activities and shows. In 2012, the Effigy cost $13. Attach the Effigy to your coat to access all 17 days of festivities. You can buy your Effigy starting in January 2013 at hundreds of shops in Quebec City, or on-site during Carnaval.
Why:
It’s the world’s largest winter carnival! And Old Quebec is picturesque.

__________________________________________________________

For more on the carnival and other winter activities in Quebec, check out…
Chilling at the Cool Hôtel de Glace
Why I Adore… Le Carnaval de Québec
Say “Bonjour” to the Cool Carnival

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A girl, her bike, a wee bit o' wanderlust...a lust for life in general. And all things pretty. We can't forget the pretty.

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Oh, the outdoor adventuress. Exploring the world (with a little vélo love). Disguised as a freelance editor. Just a girl, her bike, a wee bit o' wanderlust...a lust for life in general. And all things pretty. We can't forget the pretty. Or the sweets. xoxo jen

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Recent Posts

  • happy new year to all, and to all a good (and safe) night!
  • christmas carollers bring festive cheer to toronto
  • remembrance day: lest we forget
  • TIFF in the park brings classic screwball comedies to toronto all summer long
  • toronto port authority’s sail-in cinema returns, august 16-18, 2012
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  • toronto’s open roof film festival heralds the start of summer
  • world naked bike ride day: toronto cyclists bare all for the environment
  • luminato celebrates creativity in toronto and the world
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