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loving the ride

~ exploring the world (with a little vélo love)

loving the ride

Tag Archives: drake bay

travel and escape: snorkelling costa rica’s cano island

25 Sunday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, travel

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cano island, central america, corcovado national park, costa rica, drake bay, monkeys costa rica, pirate cove costa rica, snorkelling cano island, snorkelling costa rica, travel and escape, travel+escape

Yay! Part 3 of my three-part series on Costa Rica for the Travel+Escape channel’s website is live! And so far, my post about snorkelling the waters near Cano Island is the most popular of the three blog posts. Perhaps people relate to my fear of open water…and the slimy stuff in that water. Or maybe people like reading about someone trying to overcome that fear. Probably it’s the story about how I snorkelled with sharks! Sorta.

Part 2 of the Travel+Escape series was about my two daytrips to Corcovado National Park, which was monkey paradise!

And Part 1, which I’d posted about before, was about how I forged a crocodile-infested river in Drake Bay to get to the deserted beach on the other side. Not really. It was more about how I’d have to wait for low tide to cross the river near the ocean because I didn’t want to meet the caimans lurking in the calmer water down the river. And how having to wait for the tides taught me to slow down and just enjoy doing nothing.

__________________________________________________________

It's a jungle out there!

Read more about my trek to Costa Rica:
It’s a Jungle Out There!     Hola, Drake Bay
Breakfast with a Toucan
   Snorkelling with Sharks 
Lunch with a Lizard
Costa Rica, Te Extraño     
Answering the Call of the Wild in Costa Rica

Horseback Riding Along the Jungle Trails of Drake Bay, Costa Rica

venturing into the wild side of costa rica

09 Friday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, travel

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Tags

central america, corcovado, costa rica, drake bay, osa peninsula, travel and tourism, travel+escape

Voilà! My first blog post for the Travel+Escape channel’s website is up! Click here to find out just how much fun I had forging a croc-invested river to get to the picturesque beach on the other side. It’s Part 1 of a three-part series on my adventures in Costa Rica’s remote Drake Bay, on the Osa Peninsula. Part 2, about my close encounters with wild animals in the lush jungles of Corcovado National Park, goes live Tuesday, March 13! Don’t forget to check out the posts!

__________________________________________________________

Costa Rica, Te Extraño

Read more about my trek into wilds of Costa Rica:
It’s a Jungle Out There!     Hola, Drake Bay
Breakfast with a Toucan
   Snorkelling with Sharks 
Lunch with a Lizard
Costa Rica, Te Extraño 
Horseback Riding Along the Jungle Trails of Drake Bay, Costa Rica  
Answering the Call of the Wild in Costa Rica



horseback riding along the jungle trails of drake bay, costa rica

21 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

cano island, central america, corcovado, costa rica, drake bay, equestrianism, horseback riding, scarlet macaws

pirate cove, drake bay, costa rica
DAY 5
Another lazy day! Except, I never do lazy very well. As I’ve said before, I’m not the kinda gal that jets off to a tropical destination just to lounge on a beach. That’s why Costa Rica is an ideal getaway for me – there are more than enough activities to balance out the laziness. But after shelling out the big bucks in Drake Bay to snorkel with sharks near Isla del Caño and mingle with monkeys in the rainforests of Corcovado National Park, I’d decided to cool my heels by spending a few days chilling at my eco-lodge, Pirate Cove. Or so I thought.

Honestly, there’s really only so much beach I can take. So for my second lazy day at Pirate Cove, I threw in a couple of hours of horseback riding in between my beach time and paddle time. And unlike the horseback riding I did later on in Santa Elena, riding at Pirate Cove felt like an authentic Tico experience.

There was something very relaxed and easy about it all. Susanne, one of the owners, manages the lodge and loves horseback riding; she was really excited to ride that day because the only chance she gets to ride is when a guest rides too. That day, I was the sole guest who’d requested it, so it was going to just be me and Susanne riding through the jungle! It’s personal experiences like riding with a private guide that made my stay at Pirate Cove so special.

As usual, I waited till low tide before crossing the river. I strolled along the beach a bit before lounging under an almond tree, where I'd seen a pair of scarlet macaws the day before (macaws love almonds, so it's not unusual to find them in almond trees!). This stretch of beach became my go-to spot for lounging. Yes, I do lounge, though not very often and not for very long! And, hey, if lying on a deserted beach was what it took to get a shot of those elusive scarlet macaws munching almonds, well, I wasn't about to complain.

Except that all of a sudden, Susanne came galloping up on horseback. I didn’t realize it was her till she was close – hardly anyone walks, let alone rides, along that two kilometre beach. I thought we were riding at 1 p.m., which is why I’d spent the morning relaxing at the beach; she thought we were riding at 11 a.m. and was wondering why I wasn’t at the lodge. Oops! Thankfully, they’re pretty laid back at Pirate Cove, and when Susanne found me lying there, she told me to continue chilling and we’d ride after lunch. Phew!

When I returned to the lodge, I found our horses waiting next to the trees down by the beach. I was a smidge scared to get on my horse, Coyote (he’s the one in the back), for fear his saddle was going to shift right around as I swung my leg up and over.

As I was taking such a long time trying to mount Coyote, Susanne had me use the bench beside this hammock as a step. And I know it’s silly, but I had to use it to dismount Coyote, too. I chalk it up to my fear of heights!

From the lodge, we rode along the main (gravel) road, and on the way to the tiny town of Drake, I noticed a series of monkey bridges in the treetops so the monkeys could cross the road! It really is a jungle out there, just beyond the lodge!

And it’s really rugged out there too, as I’ve said before. Those monkey bridges are some of the only bridges in the area. When we reached the Rio Drake, our horses continued right on through it without a pause! I’d crossed the river by car the same way the day I arrived – and, lemme tell you, I thought our car was going to get stuck. No worries about our horses getting stuck, though I did fear I’d fall off Coyote, thus I gripped the reins mighty tight.

Riding was fun! I enjoyed passing by the locals’ houses and looking out across the fields and forests to the mountains in the distance. It took us about half an hour to ride to the town, where we stopped at the soda for a drink. I was still too scared to get off and on Coyote, so I stayed on him and snacked like that while Susanne was laughing at me (I would have laughed at me too!).

After our break, we turned down the little road past the school (which has a big football field) and continued through a muddy path in the jungle, passing the occasional house and harvested field.

Every now and then, especially as we got closer to the beach, Coyote would break into a gallop and I’d freak out even more till I could rein him in. But it was rather thrilling when the jungle opened up to the beach, and we could see the vast stretch of sand and sea before us.

A bit farther down the beach was this shipwreck washed ashore! It’s split in half, and locals were salvaging it for parts to sell/reuse. From Pirate Cove, it was a small speck in the distance. I’d no clue that it was there!

We ended up riding two kilometres back along the beach, which you can only do at low tide because at high tide stretches of the beach completely disappear under the water! When we reached the Rio Drake, our horses plowed right on through again, the rushing water coming up to their bellies.

Oh! Not to make you jealous, but I did see that pair of scarlet macaws I’d been waiting for on the beach. While I was relaxing in my hammock before riding, they’d landed in the almond tree right outside my bungalow! Sigh. That’s what was so awesome about Pirate Cove and Drake Bay – wildlife was always right at my fingertips! (Luckily, wildlife wasn’t too, too close when I paddled the Drake after siesta; had I seen another caiman, I might have screamed!)

Want to see how exciting my other days in Drake Bay were? Check out…

Costa Rica, Te Extraño Hola, Drake Bay Snorkelling with Sharks

It's a Jungle Out There! Breakfast with a Toucan Lunch with a Lizard


costa rica: lunch with a lizard

05 Sunday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

caiman, central america, costa rica, drake bay, lizard, osa peninsula, toucan

DAY 4 P.M.  Ta-da! My lazy “do nothing” day at Pirate Cove was relaxing but still so packed with animal sightings that I had to break it up into two posts. Double the pleasure, n’est pas? (I wish I could say that en español.) Gosh, to say I dislike creepy crawlies is an understatement. It’s beyond me why I later did a night tour, when I did not enjoy my daytime encounters with lizards like this one. It’s a clear enough photo that I could zoom in closer, but why would I want a detailed look at this beast? I got creeped out looking at it from a distance! Yes, my lazy day at Pirate Cove started out with my having breakfast with a toucan, so it shouldn’t have surprised me that a lizard would join me for lunch! Annnd that a caiman would tease me before dinner. No joke!!!

In case you forgot (tsk tsk), this is the gorgeousness I awoke to! You can read about this toucan and my morning adventures here. C'mon, you know you want to know more!

Continue reading →

costa rica: breakfast with a toucan

02 Thursday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

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central america, corcovado, costa rica, drake bay, isla del caño, osa peninsula, scarlet macaw, toucan, travel and tourism

DAY 4 A.M.  Ahhh, a laaazy day. I love lazy days. I’m not a lounging-on-the-beach-sipping-cocktails kinda girl, but nothin’ wrong with chilling. After the excitement of Corcovado and snorkelling, I was perfectly happy relaxing in my hammock, swimming in the ocean, walking along the beach, chasing after lizards and kayaking down the river by Pirate Cove. Lest I forget my little late-afternoon run-in with the caiman. And, hey, my day was still guided by those crazy farmer’s hours and the tides! While the other guests were frolicking out by Isla del Caño, I was savouring delicious fresh pineapple during a looong breakfast, waiting for low tide so I could cross the Rio Drake to explore the beach on the other side. That’s when the real awesomeness of Pirate Cove became apparent: how close to nature you can get!

Early morning toucan sightings were the norm on my lazy days. How cool is that? I’d be relaxing over breakfast, and this chestnut-mandibled toucan would scavenge for berries in the trees beside me. Every. Day.

Continue reading →

costa rica: it’s a jungle out there!

31 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

corcovado, costa rica, drake bay, jungle, monkey, osa peninsula, rain forest, travel and tourism

DAY 3  So after a faaabulous day snorkelling near Isla del Caño (dolphins! sharks! stingrays!), I woke up at an even earlier ungodly hour the next day to visit one of the largest national parks in Costa Rica: Corcovado. Everything starts early in Bahìa Drake – breakfast is at 5:30 or 6 a.m. – because you have to take a boat to go anywhere, and that might take at least an hour. So everyone gets up before 6 a.m. and then goes to bed around 8 or 9 p.m. I hadn’t quite gotten used to the farmer’s hours just yet, but it was definitely easier to wake up before dawn when I had Corcovado to look forward to! Admittedly, $90 US seemed steep for a day trip to Sirena, one of four research stations in the park. But my main reason for coming to Bahìa Drake was Corcovado (National Geographic has called it “the most biologically intense place on earth”). And after seeing such an amazing array of animals (howler monkeys! squirrel monkeys! more howler monkeys!), I vouch it was worth every penny! Corcovado was absolutely the highlight of my trip.

6:10 a.m. Yawn. It was still dark when I left! As I’ve said before, Pirate Cove was a distance from the main tourist hub of Bahìa Drake. Since I was the only tourist from Pirate Cove that day, the driver had to make a special trip to pick me up before making stops farther down the coast. Yes, I’m special. Remember that.

8:05 a.m. Ohhh, panther prints! Once ashore (after about an hour-and-a-half boat ride), we split into two groups. Eight of us were whisked away by Javier, our guide, who promptly pointed out the prints. Though panthers and jaguars are sometimes spotted near Sirena, I suspect Javier was pulling our naive tourist legs…but I believed him!

9:30 a.m. Lizard! Yup, we saw lots of ’em chilling on driftwood on the beach.

9:35 a.m. The famous – and endangered – Baird’s tapir is the largest mammal in Central America. A nocturnal animal, this particular tapir can be found cooling himself in his mud hole during the day. And who could blame him? It’s darn humid in the rain forest! There was condensation in my camera lens!

10:05 a.m. Kudos to Javier, who was carrying around a heavy Swarovski telescope. He’d let us take pictures through it with our point-and-shoot cameras. Sometimes the birds were so high up, even the fancy zoom lens on my DSLR couldn’t get this close.

10:20 a.m. Like the tapir, this pair of great horned owls seemed to always be found at home and remained undisturbed by us.

10:35 a.m. My first monkey! Yay! Corcovado is the only place in Costa Rica where you can find all four species of native monkeys: the squirrel monkey, white-face monkey, howler monkey and spider monkey. To tell the truth, I hadn’t researched that beforehand, and I couldn’t tell the difference between them. Looking at pictures now, I can see their features, but at the time I could barely see them at the tops of the trees (the trick is to look for moving leaves)! Five minutes ago, I was convinced the one above was a squirrel monkey, but now I’m sure it’s a baby howler (because of its black face). Actually, now I think it’s a spider monkey!

11:03 a.m. In action! An adult howler howling! Courtesy of Javier’s telescope.

11:45 a.m. Post-lunch, which we’d eaten at the research station, we took a different trail. I’m still amazed at how huge all the plants were. Mom would be so jealous!

12:15 p.m. A squirrel monkey (I’m sure of it!), hidden behind some leaves.

12:30 p.m. Can you see them? I count five – five clumps of dark fur nestled in the branches. Howler monkeys. Later, as we were heading back to the beach to wait for our boat, we could hear them howling! I took a video just for the audio – they sounded like dogs howling at each other! Truly eerie.

12:31 p.m. My first trip to Corcovado was really all about the monkeys, though we did spot a few birds, such as this mysterious brown one.

12:37 p.m. And this one, which I’m calling a partridge, but it’s not.

12:39 p.m. While I live to cycle, hike and paddle, I willingly admit I’m a klutz and am always injuring myself. Crossing this creek didn’t not go well for me – I slipped and spent the rest of the hike in soggy boots.

12:50 p.m. But falling in the water had its perks: Javier felt sorry for me and let me get up close to this little howler squirrel monkey.

12:53 p.m. And this squirrel monkey came crazy close to us!
12:57 p.m. He was too cute!!!

1:03 p.m. Though not the coveted blue morpho (which I saw fluttering around Pirate Cove!), a blue butterfly nonetheless.

1:35 p.m. And that was my first trip to Corcovado, which ended with refreshing watermelon by the beach while we waited for our boat. I still think it’s funny how the guys get out to land and launch the boats! It took four guys (Javier’s there on the left) a few tries to use the waves to get us out to sea.

costa rica: snorkelling with sharks

30 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

cano island, corcovado national park, costa rica, drake bay, osa peninsula, snorkelling

DAY 2  Yup, my second day in Bahìa Drake involved lots of marine life, like this sea turtle, which I saw before I even started snorkelling off the coast of Isla del Caño. Like the rest of Costa Rica, there’s much to do in Bahìa Drake, and snorkelling is the second most popular activity, after a trip to Corcovado National Park. Too bad I’ve a fear of open water and had only snorkelled once before (in Boracay, Philippines). But determined to make the most of the area, I woke up at dawn, ready to fortify myself with a delicious breakfast of pineapple, mangoes, homemade bread and guava jelly! That’s the awesome thing about Pirate Cove – one of the owners, Suzanne, has a farm, and she goes there daily to harvest whatever fruit are ripe (pineapples, mangoes, papayas, bananas). I felt so spoiled! Continue reading →

costa rica: hola, drake bay

29 Sunday Jan 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in inspiration, photography, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

central america, corcovado national park, costa rica, drake bay, manuel antonio national park, osa peninsula

DAY 1  Sigh. This picture of the beach at Pirate Cove makes me want to go back there. Granted, Pirate Cove, the resort I stayed at in Bahìa Drake, wasn’t all picture perfect – this glowing sunset is softening the “natural” landscape of the Peninsula de Osa. This beach was rugged: noseeums would bite me, hermit crabs would scuttle about, volcanic rock formations would be buried under the ocean at high tide (which, BTW, makes for dangerous swimming if you don’t know they’re there!). No chaise longues to lounge on languidly, no oversize beach umbrellas, no striped cabanas. No, this is a beach in its raw form: two kilometres of deserted sandy shore that nearly disappears at high tide. In fact, this small stretch of beach right in front of Pirate Cove is so underdeveloped and unlandscaped, it’s cut off from those deserted two kilometres by the overflowing Rio Drake at high tide. The only way to cross the Rio Drake is to wade through it at low tide! And with caimans in that river, you’d only want to cross it when you can see what’s in the water. At the mercy of nature? Now, that’s rugged.

When I first sunk my toes into the sand, a thought popped into my head: “This isn’t what I thought it’d be.” And when a swimmer came out of the water and, in passing, warned me about the rocks, I thought: “Maybe this was a mistake.” No, my initial thoughts about Pirate Cove (and Bahìa Drake) wasn’t that it was a tropical paradise. But after a few days there, I realized that ruggedness was just what I desired. And thus, my three-day stay at Bahìa Drake turned into an eight-day adventure to kick-off my first foray into the wonderful Costa Rica. It was the best part of my trip. Had I been more astute, I would have realized that the difficulty in getting to the remote Bahìa Drake was part of its beauty. Continue reading →

i spy with my little eye

09 Monday Jan 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in photography, travel

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boa constrictor, costa rica, crocodile, drake bay, jungle, night tour, osa peninsula, snake

As I was saying yesterday, as much as I do not like creepy crawlies, I did a night tour around Pirate Cove in Bahía Drake, Costa Rica. My guide, Gustavo, and I were poking around the Rio Drake, looking for the glowing eyes of frogs, birds, crocs and insects, and then we walked along the road to Agujitas, spotting more frogs, spiders, owls, a toad…and, closer to the beach, a boa constrictor! You can just make it out in the photo shown above.

When I’d researched Pirate Cove, what stood out was the number of guests who’d said they’d seen boa constrictors and crocs while kakaying the Rio Drake. Now, I’m more afraid of snakes than Indiana Jones is! But the idea of seeing a boa constrictor and crocs in the wild was exciting, so I’d paddle down the Rio Drake daily, eyes peeled for a giant white boa constrictor in the trees and crocs in the murky water. I actually did see a caiman and was so rattled and panicked it would somehow manage to attack me while I was in my kayak. While my heart raced and I fumbled with my camera, it popped under the water to my right, with just its eyes peeking out, and stealthily swam a straight line to my left, passing in front of the boat. By the time I took a pic, hands shaking and heart in mouth, it ducked into the water and disappeared, and I paddled liked I’d never paddled before – faster than when I went whitewater kayaking along Palmer Rapids, up in northern Ontario!

You have to squint and use your imagination to see the caiman. In the centre of the photo, you can make out its eyes and the outline of its long snout pointing to the right. The pic's blurry because I was shaking when I took it!

And when I finally did see a large croc during a tour in Parque Nacional Corcovado (National Geographic has named the national park “the most biologically intense place on Earth”), out came the camera, and the lot of us just sat on the other side of the river, watching the croc while it slowly opened its mouth and kept it open for 10 minutes till it just as slowly closed it and slipped into the water without a splash. And we promptly realized maybe we better move away from the riverbank! You know, just in case that giant croc had decided that we would be his lunch.

Fascinating to no end! Unsettling how this croc kept his mouth open for so long. More unsettling when he slipped into the water as we sat on the bank!

As thrilling and as safe as it was to see a croc up close, I wasn’t so keen on coming face to face with that elusive boa constrictor. However, the boa turned out to be the highlight – and the last animal I saw – on the night tour I did with Gustavo, my guide, who found it on the ground near the beach beside Pirate Cove. Admittedly, the boa constrictor wasn’t a massive creature, but that didn’t stop me from squirming when Gustavo picked it up in his hands! And then he invited me to touch the snake’s skin, which I did, surprisingly after very little prompting on his part. OK, OK, in truth he had asked if I wanted to hold it, but I’m not that adventurous! I got enough kicks watching it slithering on his hands and even did pet it ever so briefly. Despite all the comments on the website, I think seeing a boa at Pirate Cove was a rarity, because Gustavo quickly pulled out his camera to take pics as well!

Did you spot the boa constrictor peeking out from behind the bamboo? Small enough to disappear in this cluster of bamboo stalks, it was still powerful: it could constrict its muscles to lift half of its weight. I can’t imagine walking past it and not realizing it’s there among the bamboo! Freaky, then, that this bamboo was only about 40 feet from where I’d eat dinner. I can’t believe I’m even posting these pictures. I shudder every time I look at them!

this isn’t kermit

08 Sunday Jan 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in photography, travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

costa rica, drake bay, frogs, mangrove, night tour, osa penisula

January being an ideal time to visit Costa Rica, I’ve decided to do a few posts about my trip there last winter, when I spent about a month wandering the jungles and beaches. I started out in Bahía Drake, on the Peninsula de Osa, in the south. The area is rather undeveloped, with no bridges for vehicles to cross the rivers – you just drive right through the water and hope you don’t get stuck (four-wheel drive is a must). In fact, there aren’t even any real bridges for pedestrians, who cross the rivers on makeshift bridges, like fallen logs. It really is a jungle out there, the only “bridges” being in the treetops so the monkeys don’t have to cross the gravel road!

I stayed at the remote Pirate Cove, a tiny rustic resort in the jungle, in my own private bungalow overlooking both the Pacific Ocean and the Rio Drake. And though I’m not one for creepy crawlies, I bucked it up and did a night tour around the grounds, with just myself and my guide, Gustavo, a lovely gentleman from the nearby village of Agujitas. It wasn’t like the regular tours you get in the more touristed areas of Costa Rica, where a slew of guides line up to poke sticks in a tarantula nest. We really were just exploring the resort grounds and walking along the road to Agujitas, with Gustavo’s hearing being so in tune with his surroundings that he could figure out what leaf an insect was under based on the sound the bug was making.

Mucking about the mangrove, I came face to face with a caiman, which is basically a small croc, but it didn’t seem so small when I was knee deep in water, staring into its glowing beady eyes in the dark! The frogs we discovered were much more to my liking, at least until the one pictured here jumped onto my arm and I screamed, making Gustavo shush me for fear that someone in the distance would think he was attacking me. It would have been funny if I hadn’t been so scared of all the animals! Waiting to be accosted by a boa constrictor is not my idea of fun…but it turned out to be pretty cool (you’ll have to wait for another post for the boa pics!). Here’s one of the frogs from the mangrove. I was switching between my DSLR and point-and-shoot and took pictures of a few frogs, but I’m 99% sure all of these pics are of the same one, the famous and colourful red-eyed tree frog. Gustavo had gently placed it on his shirt so I could take some pics (the colour contrast was stronger that way), then he let it step back onto a leaf, and eventually it changed colour to camouflage itself. You can also see that it inflated itself to appear bigger and its eyes darkened too.



jennifer krissilas

A girl, her bike, a wee bit o' wanderlust...a lust for life in general. And all things pretty. We can't forget the pretty.

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Oh, the outdoor adventuress. Exploring the world (with a little vélo love). Disguised as a freelance editor. Just a girl, her bike, a wee bit o' wanderlust...a lust for life in general. And all things pretty. We can't forget the pretty. Or the sweets. xoxo jen

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twitter

  • Hi @SUANDBU! When is the Bathurst outpost slated to open? I need to know ASAP for a magazine story. Thanks! 5 years ago
  • Hi @DrSheilaSahni! A reminder that if you're able to reply to the Word doc ASAP today (before noon your time), that's best. Thanks! 5 years ago
  • Hi @DrSheilaSahni! Just checking whether you'll be able to respond to that fact-check email by EOD today. Thanks! 5 years ago
  • Hi @DrSheilaSahni! A heads-up that I e'd a fact-check query re: a reprint of this AARP article: bit.ly/2jApnGw 5 years ago
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