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~ exploring the world (with a little vélo love)

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Tag Archives: quebec

knuk & bonhomme: quebec city winter carnival mascots

03 Saturday Mar 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

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Tags

bonhomme, canada, carnaval, carnaval de quebec, carnival, costume, knuk, quebec, winter

It’s a Carnaval de Québec knuk! That is, one of the playful sidekicks of Bonhomme Carnaval, the Quebec Winter Carnival’s snowman mascot. Spotting Bonhomme and his knuks is one of the things to do in Quebec City during the winter carnival. Marching through the historic part of Quebec City, this wee one is accompanied by his mom while his li’l sis, dressed up as Bonhomme himself (complete with traditional red toque, sash tied at the waist, and head-to-toe white), is carried by Dad till she agrees to tag along. Oh my gosh, I want to hug them both! Believe me, the little Knuk and Bonhomme were just as adorable in person as I was chasing after them walking to the Quebec Winter Carnival festivities on the Plains of Abraham. Too. Cute. For. Words.

__________________________________________________________

What: Le Carnaval de Québec (the Quebec Winter Carnival)
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. Activities are concentrated in Old Quebec (the historic Old Town), specifically on the sprawling Plains of Abraham.
When: The 59th edition of the modern incarnation of the carnival runs February 1-17, 2013. Yes, that’s a year away, but it pays to be prepared!
Cost: A Bonhomme Effigy (a figurine of Bonhomme) is required for most of the 300-plus activities and shows. In 2012, the Effigy cost $13. Attach the Effigy to your coat to access all 17 days of festivities. You can buy your Effigy starting in January 2013 at hundreds of shops in Quebec City, or on-site during Carnaval.
Why:
It’s the world’s largest winter carnival! And Old Quebec is picturesque.

__________________________________________________________

For more on the carnival and other winter activities in Quebec, check out…
Chilling at the Cool Hôtel de Glace
Why I Adore… Le Carnaval de Québec
Say “Bonjour” to the Cool Carnival

quebec city: say “bonjour” to the cool carnival

27 Monday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in outdoors, photography, travel

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Tags

art, canada, carnival, culture, mardi gras, photography, quebec, travel, winter

Let’s be honest. When you think about carnival, you think about Mardi Gras and the craziness of Rio and New Orleans, don’t you? You think sun and heat and half-naked ladies parading along streets in glittery over-the-top colourful costumes, and parties galore, right? Betcha the last thing you think about when dreaming of carnival is snow. Or cold. Or Canada, home to the world’s largest and most famous WINTER carnival!

You read right! Last week, I wrote about my favourite event at Quebec City’s fabulous Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival): the gorgeous night parades. I also raved about the spectacular Hôtel de Glace (Ice Hotel), which isn’t part of the carnival but is a must-see if you’re in the city during Carnaval (from the end of January to mid-February). So let’s continue that theme with my top 5 things to do at the Quebec Winter Carnival.

1  the night parades

As I wrote last week, I wouldn’t dream of going to Carnaval de Québec without taking in one of the festive night parades. The floats themselves are really about the colourful characters, not about advertisements or huge platforms featuring an oversize figure and a bunch of dancers or princesses. The characters, whether clowns (as shown above) or a giant glowing turtle or centipede or big red top hat, are the main attraction. Scratch that. Bohomme Carnaval, the carnival’s snowman mascot, is the real appeal, and he knows it! The symbol of the 218-year-old carnival since 1954, the spirited Bonhomme always appears on the final float to great cheers by youngsters and the young at heart alike. Keep in mind that there are only two night parades, and they take place on the second and third Saturdays of the carnival.

2  the ice hotel

Not part of the carnival proper, the Hôtel de Glace is open from early January to late March, since it, naturally, melts come spring. It’s spectacle on a grand scale, as spectacles should be, and its ephemeral beauty has to be experienced in person to be truly appreciated. It’s a hotel made of ice and snow, after all. Feeling cold while chilling in the Ice Bar sipping cocktails out of ice glasses is part of the fun! Don’t worry, your lips will melt the ice glass a wee bit, so you won’t freeze to it. Though, you might feel your toes going numb as you wander the private suites, which are open to the public during the day, and are illuminated with coloured lights and decorated with intricate snow carvings. If you really want a cool experience, you can shell out $400-plus a night per person to sleep there, cuddling in a -30°C-rated sleeping bag on a bed of ice!

3 the plains of abraham

During the carnival, the historic Plains of Abraham is turned into an awesome amusement park, where many of the activities take place. There’s plenty to tickle your fancy, from snow sculptures (see No. 4) and zip lining to snow tubing and snow rafting to snow slides and ice slides. There are even life-size table soccer games, and sleigh rides and dogsledding!

Dogsledding on a small patch of the Plains of Abraham certainly is no comparison to mushing in the wild, but it's cheap and fun! Staring at the rear ends of these dogs wasn't the nicest, so I recommend you fight your friend to stand on the runners at the back of the sled, rather than lazily sitting on the sled as I did. Be warned that you can't snap photos while you're driving, so if you're looking to shoot a few pics, opt for the seat instead.

On top of the activities you can participate in, the Plains of Abraham is loaded with sporting events you can watch, like the St-Hubert Derby (horses pull sleighs in races), dogsled races, and skijoring (horses pull skiers – yes, it sounds crazy, and yes, it’s a legitimate sport!).

Now, Bonhomme’s Ice Palace is not an extreme sport, but it does have a cool factor, and its new home for 2012 was the action-packed Plains of Abraham. Though it’s not on the same scale as the 32-000-square-foot Ice Hotel, the entire palace is illuminated at night and is the site of the evening dance parties, where you can shake your thang under the stars!

4 the snow sculptures

Talk about larger-than-life characters! Every year, sculptors from around the globe bring giant blocks of snow to life in an open-air museum on the historic Plains of Abraham. The International Snow Sculpture Competition officially opened in 1973 with just four teams participating, although snow sculptures had already been part of Quebec culture for years. Watch as groups of artists create fantastical figures overnight, then marvel at the stunning results during the day. And maybe treat the sculptors to a Caribou (the traditional Carnaval drink) or BeaverTail (a delectable flat beaver tail-shape doughnut sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar) for their efforts!

5  the soapbox derby

I’d like to pick the crazy canoe races along the St. Lawrence River as No. 5, but to be fair, I’ve never seen teams battle (or paddle?) it out on the frozen yet flowing river, though I sure would like to! There’s a reason they’ve been holding the canoe races since 1955! But to give the kiddies their glory, I’m picking the soapbox derby. It’s fun to watch the kids in their homemade soapbox cars speeding down the streets of Old Quebec, with their families and strangers cheering them on. And while you’re in the heart of the Old Town, you can always pop into a gallery or boutique to do some window shopping under the guise of thawing your toes. Bonus: As you wander the historic European-style streets of Old Quebec, you’ll come upon the majestic Château Frontenac.

__________________________________________________________

What: Le Carnaval de Québec (the Quebec Winter Carnival)
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. Activities are concentrated in Old Quebec, the historic Old Town. Some events take place on streets and squares, but the majority of the fun occurs on the sprawling Plains of Abraham.
When: The 59th edition of the modern incarnation of the carnival runs February 1-17, 2013. Yes, I know that’s a year away, but it pays to be prepared!
Cost: A Bonhomme Effigy (a figurine of Bonhomme, the carnival’s snowman mascot) is required for most activities. In 2012, the Effigy cost $13. You attach the Effigy to your coat, and that gets you access to all 17 days of festivities. That’s more than 300 activities and shows! You can buy your Effigy starting in January 2013 at hundreds of shops in Quebec City, or on-site during Carnaval.
Why:
It’s the world’s largest winter carnival! Plus, it’s a fun way to enjoy the outdoors. Quebec City’s historic Old Town is chock full of little galleries and restaurants, so there’s lots to do
indoors if you need a break from the outdoors. 

__________________________________________________________ 

For more on the carnival and winter in Quebec, check out…
Why I Adore… Le Carnaval de Québec
Chilling in the Cool Hôtel de Glace
Knuk & Bonhomme: My Favourite Unexpected Site at Carnaval

quebec city: chilling in the cool ice hotel

26 Sunday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in architecture, outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

adventure, architecture, canada, carnival, ice hotel, quebe winter carnival, quebec, snow, travel, winter

Have you ever wondered just how much time you can spend outdoors in subzero temps in the depths of winter? How about in a hotel made of ice and snow? Take a good look at the image above. Notice that the bed is made of ice? And those are snow carvings on snow walls? And that’s a fur blanket for a touch of warmth? That would be real fur and faux warmth, natch.

I’m talking northern hemisphere here. Quebec, Canada, specifically. So believe me when I say that Quebec City’s 32,000-square-foot Hôtel de Glace is c-c-c-cold. Heck, to say that winter in Quebec is ridiculously freezing would not be exaggerating in the slightest, so needless to say that the Hôtel de Glace (Ice Hotel) is really more of a novelty hotel for adventure seekers. Who wants to pay to trade down a warm, cosy bed at the Four Points by Sheraton Québec Resort, which is included in the night rate, for a slab of ice?

I’ll be totally upfront right now: I didn’t sleep in the Ice Hotel. For one, I can’t afford it, since accommodation starts at $400 Cdn per person! (You’ll be wanting that extra body next to you for heat, so that works out to a whopping $800 Cdn a night for a couple! Mighty expensive novelty, there.) And two, I was only in Quebec City for a day. Crazy gal that I am (this was back in 2009), I travelled overnight – both ways. I arrived at an early 6 a.m. and left at a late midnight. That made for a looong, near-frostbitten day and night outdoors, wandering Le Carnaval de Québec and the stunning Hôtel de Glace. And three, though I love gallivanting in snow (I really do), I don’t desire sleeping in it!

The ephemeral Hôtel de Glace, at its former location 30 mins north of Quebec City, is a marvel of snow and ice! It's a maze, too, the interior a series of rooms off long corridors – rooms you can stay in, if you're so brave as to, ahem, brave a night in this 32,000-square-foot icebox that averages -3°C inside.

One of the reasons I was wary of staying at the Hôtel de Glace back in 2009 is that there appeared to be no proper toilets at the time. Nope. See the giant women/men sign on the left? It's pointing to a row of porta potties, which are a small step up from outhouses only because they usually dispense antibacterial hand cleanser. For overnight guests now, at the new location just 10 minutes from Quebec City, there's a heated bathroom, a lounge and lockers in the Celsius Pavilion near the hotel.

winter wonderland: the beauty of ice and snow
So, yes, I freely admit I did not overnight it at the hotel. Snow is actually an excellent insulator, and the hotel interior hovers around -3°C inside, regardless of the temperature outside. My friends go winter camping in much colder temperatures, and they build quinzhees (snow shelters) to sleep in, so I know the idea of sleeping in a hotel made of ice isn’t as insane as it sounds. But two hours of exploring the hotel’s grounds and 36 intricately carved and colourfully lit rooms was more than enough time for me to lose feeling in my oh so precious fingers and toes. (The shuttle bus to and from downtown Quebec City, which took around 30 minutes, was just enough time to warm me back up!) I like to think of the hotel as a glammed-up snow fort with some strategically placed, girly ice accents: all of the rooms are made of packed machine-made snow, and the sparse selection of furniture – beds in the suites and a few benches and tables in common areas like the entry and bar – is made from huge blocks of ice. It’s a cool tourist attraction, indeed!

Of all the 36 rooms, the entry was my favourite. It was this arched snow tunnel with carved ice columns and a crazy-cool ice chandelier that changed colours, from green to teal to blue to yellow to pink! People tended to huddle here, sitting on the ice benches and chilling at the ice tables.

What can I say about a magical chandelier – made from faceted blocks of ice – that's illuminated a rainbow of colours from within? Spectacular!

Where there's alcohol, there's warmth. So of course, even more people were attracted to the Ice Bar! I'm not joking that everything in this space is snow and ice: drinks are served in ice glasses (read: giant ice cubes)!

We snatched this nook as soon as we could, because there weren't many seats in the Ice Bar, which can fit 400 guests. The ice bench is covered with a fur pelt, so our tushes were toasty. OK, not toasty, but definitely not frozen! Despite being surrounded by snow and ice, we were quite cosy while sipping our cocktails served in ice glasses.

the suite life: where you sleep
Each themed suite has stunning carvings on the walls (the hockey and jazz suites were especially awe inspiring). The private rooms are open to the public till 8 p.m., after which they’re reserved for overnight guests. Though they do remain open in a way – the suites don’t have doors! They’re not directly open to one another, as the openings are staggered, but certainly it’s possible for guests to poke their heads into other rooms. So no hanky panky! And although it’s true that the beds are made of blocks of ice, there are a good few inches of blankets and mattress and wood between you and the ice. Plus, sleeping bags rated as low as -30°C are provided. If you don’t overdress and don’t bury your mouth in your sleeping bag, you’ll be fine. You’re trying to reduce humidity, as it’s the damp, not the temp, that will make you chilled – so your goal is to not sweat! Sleeping in just a layer of thermals is A-OK. The trick is to do a few jumping jacks to raise your body temperature before you crawl into your bag, so your body heat will warm the air around you. I swear by it when I camp!

The suites are themed and showcase intricate carvings on the snow walls. This one is of a Native Canadian in a feather headdress.

The Hôtel de Glace is in Canada, so naturally there's a hockey-themed room! This suite was my favourite, with fun scenes of excited players gracing the walls. Carvings and textured surfaces made the space seem cosy – as cosy as a room made of snow and outfitted with an ice bed can be!

I couldn't resist curling up under a fur blanket to test out a bed. Honestly, the fur did nothing to keep me warm, but I imagine with expedition thermals and a -50°C sleeping bag, I could sleep without shivering. (I don't really believe that: I rely on a -20°C sleeping bag in summer, and that's after doing jumping jacks! Apparently I'm weird that way.)

I think, if I had $400 splurge on a night at the Hôtel de Glace, I might just do so. Though I know myself, and I know every time I’d warm up at the Four Points Sheraton Québec for a shower or breakfast or dinner (all included, along with a bed if you so wimp out, with your accommodation), I wouldn’t want to leave the resort. But at the same time, sleeping in a hotel made of ice would make for an awesome experience! Maybe, maybe…

__________________________________________________________

What: The stunning Hôtel de Glace, 1-877-505-04234 (toll-free)
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
When: First week of January to the end of March
Cost: Day trippers are rewarded with inexpensive rates: for 2012, $17.50 (adults), $15.50 (seniors/students), $8.50 (kids), $43.75 (family). Overnight rates are per person: $400 (Northern Discovery), $450 (Adventure), $500 (Romantic Getaway), $550 (Ultimate). Wedding packages start at $2,299.
How: A shuttle bus runs to and from Old Quebec a few times a day. For 2012, transportation and hotel day admission combined is $34.95 (adults), $21.95 (kids); round-trip transportation alone is $19.95 (adults), $9.95 (kids); tickets can be purchased day-of at the tourist office.
Why:
Must you ask? It’s a hotel made entirely of ice and snow! Go back and reread all of the above, from the very first pic.
Bonus: Quebec City’s Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival), a 17-day winter carnival, takes place from the end of January to mid-February. It’s a treat to combine Carnaval with the Hôtel de Glace. 

__________________________________________________________ 

For more on Le Carnaval de Québec
and winter fun in Quebec, check out…

Why I Adore… Le Carnaval de Québec
Say “Bonjour” to the Cool Carnival
Knuk & Bonhomme: My Favourite Unexpected
Site at Carnaval



why i adore… le carnaval de québec night parades

24 Friday Feb 2012

Posted by lovingtheride in art, outdoors, photography, travel

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

art, canada, carnaval de quebec, carnival, culture, design, night parade, quebec, quebec winter carnival, winter

Brrr. This Canuck hates to admit it, but she never knew cold till she spent a full day gallivanting outside in Quebec City, culminating in the Carnaval de Québec‘s spectacular night parade. Not that I’m a stranger to outdoor winter activities – I’m a nordic skier, after all. But when I attended Quebec’s Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival) a couple of years ago, I majorly underestimated just how “cold” the cold in Quebec City is!

I’d checked the weather for Quebec the day before, and it was comparable to Toronto – but I swear, it felt a good -20°C colder in Quebec! With all my layers of wool and thermals and fleece and Sorel boots, I still lost feeling in my toes and fingers after mere minutes outside exploring the action on the Plains of Abraham near Vieux-Quebec (the Old Town). Weirdly enough, I was relatively toasty packed tight with onlookers watching the night parade a short bus ride away. Maybe I was warmed by the excitement generated by the spectators, from families with wee ones to groups of adults. Or maybe I was so dazzled by the marching bands, clowns and the fun, illuminated floats to notice my extremities going numb. And who could blame me? Take a peek below of my favourite floats!

This, obviously, isn't part of the parade! It's a pic of me in front of the World's Largest Snowbank – on someone's lawn, no less. Can you spot the top of the chimney hidden behind the snowbank? It's no joke that Quebec City gets loads of snow and is frickin' freezing. As I said, I was actually pretty warm during the parade because we were packed tight trying to get a clear view of the floats, but, dang, look at that ginormous snowbank. That's normal in Quebec! I so wanted to slide down it, as the kids were doing.

To me, the night parades – yes, there are two! – are always the highlight of Quebec City’s winter carnival (or carnaval, en français), which dates to 1894. Carnaval takes place annually from the end of January to mid-February as a celebration leading into Lent. It occurs over three weekends, with some activities – like snow and ice slides, dogsled rides, snow rafting and giant table soccer games – also happening during the weekdays in between, for a total of 17 days of festivities ending on the Sunday before Mardi Gras. (Here’s a little tidbit for you: Until 1972, the dates were set according to the Gregorian calendar, and the carnival ended on Mardi Gras). The world-famous night parades take over the second and third Saturday of Carnaval, and they’re totally worth checking out. But remember, dress warm! And you can never have enough hand and toe warmers. Never. Enough. Trust me.

__________________________________________________________

What: Night parades at Quebec City’s Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival), a Mardi Gras-style 17-day winter carnival
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada. The first night parade occurs in the Lower Town (Charlesbourg), on the second Saturday; the second parade takes place in the Upper Town on the third Saturday. Parade routes will be available online starting January 2013.
When: The 59th edition of Carnaval runs February 1-17, 2013. Yes, I know that’s a year away, but it pays to be aware and prepared! The night parades will take place on February 9 and 16 at 7 p.m.
Cost: The parades are FREE! However, if you want to participate in other Carnaval festivities, you’ll have to purchase a Bonhomme Effigy (a figurine of Bonhomme, the carnival’s snowman mascot). In 2012, the Effigy cost $12.
Why: The night parades are colourful and energetic – for both kids and adults!

__________________________________________________________

For more on Le Carnaval de Québec
and winter fun in Quebec, check out…
Chilling in the Cool Hôtel de Glace
Say “Bonjour” to the Cool Carnival
Knuk & Bonhomme: My Favourite
Unexpected Site at Carnaval



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Oh, the outdoor adventuress. Exploring the world (with a little vélo love). Disguised as a freelance editor. Just a girl, her bike, a wee bit o' wanderlust...a lust for life in general. And all things pretty. We can't forget the pretty. Or the sweets. xoxo jen

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