Tag Archives: snow

quebec city: chilling in the cool ice hotel

26 Sunday Feb 2012

Posted by in architecture, outdoors, photography, travel

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Have you ever wondered just how much time you can spend outdoors in subzero temps in the depths of winter? How about in a hotel made of ice and snow? Take a good look at the image above. Notice that the bed is made of ice? And those are snow carvings on snow walls? And that’s a fur blanket for a touch of warmth? That would be real fur and faux warmth, natch.

I’m talking northern hemisphere here. Quebec, Canada, specifically. So believe me when I say that Quebec City’s 32,000-square-foot Hôtel de Glace is c-c-c-cold. Heck, to say that winter in Quebec is ridiculously freezing would not be exaggerating in the slightest, so needless to say that the Hôtel de Glace (Ice Hotel) is really more of a novelty hotel for adventure seekers. Who wants to pay to trade down a warm, cosy bed at the Four Points by Sheraton Québec Resort, which is included in the night rate, for a slab of ice?

I’ll be totally upfront right now: I didn’t sleep in the Ice Hotel. For one, I can’t afford it, since accommodation starts at $400 Cdn per person! (You’ll be wanting that extra body next to you for heat, so that works out to a whopping $800 Cdn a night for a couple! Mighty expensive novelty, there.) And two, I was only in Quebec City for a day. Crazy gal that I am (this was back in 2009), I travelled overnight – both ways. I arrived at an early 6 a.m. and left at a late midnight. That made for a looong, near-frostbitten day and night outdoors, wandering Le Carnaval de Québec and the stunning Hôtel de Glace. And three, though I love gallivanting in snow (I really do), I don’t desire sleeping in it!

The ephemeral Hôtel de Glace, at its former location 30 mins north of Quebec City, is a marvel of snow and ice! It's a maze, too, the interior a series of rooms off long corridors – rooms you can stay in, if you're so brave as to, ahem, brave a night in this 32,000-square-foot icebox that averages -3°C inside.

One of the reasons I was wary of staying at the Hôtel de Glace back in 2009 is that there appeared to be no proper toilets at the time. Nope. See the giant women/men sign on the left? It's pointing to a row of porta potties, which are a small step up from outhouses only because they usually dispense antibacterial hand cleanser. For overnight guests now, at the new location just 10 minutes from Quebec City, there's a heated bathroom, a lounge and lockers in the Celsius Pavilion near the hotel.

winter wonderland: the beauty of ice and snow
So, yes, I freely admit I did not overnight it at the hotel. Snow is actually an excellent insulator, and the hotel interior hovers around -3°C inside, regardless of the temperature outside. My friends go winter camping in much colder temperatures, and they build quinzhees (snow shelters) to sleep in, so I know the idea of sleeping in a hotel made of ice isn’t as insane as it sounds. But two hours of exploring the hotel’s grounds and 36 intricately carved and colourfully lit rooms was more than enough time for me to lose feeling in my oh so precious fingers and toes. (The shuttle bus to and from downtown Quebec City, which took around 30 minutes, was just enough time to warm me back up!) I like to think of the hotel as a glammed-up snow fort with some strategically placed, girly ice accents: all of the rooms are made of packed machine-made snow, and the sparse selection of furniture – beds in the suites and a few benches and tables in common areas like the entry and bar – is made from huge blocks of ice. It’s a cool tourist attraction, indeed!

Of all the 36 rooms, the entry was my favourite. It was this arched snow tunnel with carved ice columns and a crazy-cool ice chandelier that changed colours, from green to teal to blue to yellow to pink! People tended to huddle here, sitting on the ice benches and chilling at the ice tables.

What can I say about a magical chandelier – made from faceted blocks of ice – that's illuminated a rainbow of colours from within? Spectacular!

Where there's alcohol, there's warmth. So of course, even more people were attracted to the Ice Bar! I'm not joking that everything in this space is snow and ice: drinks are served in ice glasses (read: giant ice cubes)!

We snatched this nook as soon as we could, because there weren't many seats in the Ice Bar, which can fit 400 guests. The ice bench is covered with a fur pelt, so our tushes were toasty. OK, not toasty, but definitely not frozen! Despite being surrounded by snow and ice, we were quite cosy while sipping our cocktails served in ice glasses.

the suite life: where you sleep
Each themed suite has stunning carvings on the walls (the hockey and jazz suites were especially awe inspiring). The private rooms are open to the public till 8 p.m., after which they’re reserved for overnight guests. Though they do remain open in a way – the suites don’t have doors! They’re not directly open to one another, as the openings are staggered, but certainly it’s possible for guests to poke their heads into other rooms. So no hanky panky! And although it’s true that the beds are made of blocks of ice, there are a good few inches of blankets and mattress and wood between you and the ice. Plus, sleeping bags rated as low as -30°C are provided. If you don’t overdress and don’t bury your mouth in your sleeping bag, you’ll be fine. You’re trying to reduce humidity, as it’s the damp, not the temp, that will make you chilled – so your goal is to not sweat! Sleeping in just a layer of thermals is A-OK. The trick is to do a few jumping jacks to raise your body temperature before you crawl into your bag, so your body heat will warm the air around you. I swear by it when I camp!

The suites are themed and showcase intricate carvings on the snow walls. This one is of a Native Canadian in a feather headdress.

The Hôtel de Glace is in Canada, so naturally there's a hockey-themed room! This suite was my favourite, with fun scenes of excited players gracing the walls. Carvings and textured surfaces made the space seem cosy – as cosy as a room made of snow and outfitted with an ice bed can be!

I couldn't resist curling up under a fur blanket to test out a bed. Honestly, the fur did nothing to keep me warm, but I imagine with expedition thermals and a -50°C sleeping bag, I could sleep without shivering. (I don't really believe that: I rely on a -20°C sleeping bag in summer, and that's after doing jumping jacks! Apparently I'm weird that way.)

I think, if I had $400 splurge on a night at the Hôtel de Glace, I might just do so. Though I know myself, and I know every time I’d warm up at the Four Points Sheraton Québec for a shower or breakfast or dinner (all included, along with a bed if you so wimp out, with your accommodation), I wouldn’t want to leave the resort. But at the same time, sleeping in a hotel made of ice would make for an awesome experience! Maybe, maybe…

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What: The stunning Hôtel de Glace, 1-877-505-04234 (toll-free)
Where: Quebec City, Quebec, Canada
When: First week of January to the end of March
Cost: Day trippers are rewarded with inexpensive rates: for 2012, $17.50 (adults), $15.50 (seniors/students), $8.50 (kids), $43.75 (family). Overnight rates are per person: $400 (Northern Discovery), $450 (Adventure), $500 (Romantic Getaway), $550 (Ultimate). Wedding packages start at $2,299.
How: A shuttle bus runs to and from Old Quebec a few times a day. For 2012, transportation and hotel day admission combined is $34.95 (adults), $21.95 (kids); round-trip transportation alone is $19.95 (adults), $9.95 (kids); tickets can be purchased day-of at the tourist office.
Why: Must you ask? It’s a hotel made entirely of ice and snow! Go back and reread all of the above, from the very first pic.
Bonus: Quebec City’s Carnaval de Québec (Quebec Winter Carnival), a 17-day winter carnival, takes place from the end of January to mid-February. It’s a treat to combine Carnaval with the Hôtel de Glace. 

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For more on Le Carnaval de Québec
and winter fun in Quebec, check out…
Why I Adore… Le Carnaval de Québec
Say “Bonjour” to the Cool Carnival
Knuk & Bonhomme: My Favourite Unexpected
Site at Carnaval


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the no-excuse winter-riding guide

17 Tuesday Jan 2012

Posted by in bike, gear, outdoors

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So my B-icicle challenge has hit a snafu. But better the challenge was hit than my being hit, though I was hit, so to speak. This past weekend, I was biking home along a slushy, icy street webbed with streetcar tracks and lined with parked cars. It’s a street I’ve biked regularly at night, but not one I usually take when there’s snow on the ground. Not wanting to get caught in the rightmost streetcar track when passing a stretch of parked cars, I attempted to cross the track so I could ride up the middle of the lane, between the two tracks. But I didn’t cross the track at a 90° angle (I know, I know), and my front wheel suddenly slid straight into the right track and I was immediately thrown from my bike. And as I was lying in the middle of the road – stunned and unable to move due to the sharp pain in my left shoulder, arm and knee – I was seriously hoping that no cars or streetcars were going to motor right into me, and wishing that I’d been wearing my helmet and more reflective gear. Fortunately, there was nary a vehicle (or pedestrian) in sight, save those parked in a lot and on a side street. Two witnesses quickly got out of their cars to ask if I was alright, then came over to help both me and my bike up, and offered me a ride to the hospital or home. Good Samaritans, indeed! So, for my own peace of mind and for you, dear reader, I’m sharing my dos and don’ts for safe winter riding.

DON’T go if there’s snow That applies to ice, too! Your goal is swerve-free cycling. Roads devoid of the slippery stuff make for better traction and stability, so pull into the middle of the lane to avoid curbside snow if you must. Drivers will understand. This also means taking high-traffic roads instead of side streets, as main roads will be cleared first and cleared up to the curb for city buses.

DO steer clear of cracks Did you not read what I wrote above? Beware of the evil trio: streetcar tracks, cracks, potholes. They’re all out to catch your wheel, and your wheel doesn’t want to be caught. Smooth streets make for much smoother sailing, er, cycling. I said smooth, not slick. Avoid ice (see above). And avoid streets lined with streetcar tracks and parked cars (see waaay above).

DO be visible Indeed, fluorescent reflective strips are geeky, but who cares if you’re geeky? You want drivers to see you. Remember: drivers don’t expect to be sharing the road with cyclists in winter. Besides, bike geeks are cute! So put reflective bands on both ankles. Heck, put one on your left wrist so drivers can see when you’re signalling (I wear a battery-operated reflective yellow band that flashes red). And don’t forget your lights – front and back! What’s that? You don’t have lights?! Check out the über-bright Knog Gekko.

DON’T overdress As with runners, cyclists warm up within the first five minutes of activity. The fact that it’s winter doesn’t change that. The key to winter warmth is to wear layers, stay dry and keep your extremities covered. Wear a base layer that wicks sweat away from your skin so you stay dry (avoid cotton and opt for merino wool, bamboo or synthetic). Top that with a thermal layer for warmth. Finish with a breathable jacket (a non-breathable outer layer will trap your sweat and make you cold). SmartWool socks will keep your toes toasty. Icebreaker liner gloves inside actual gloves are great, though I prefer mitts. A scarf is a must, but watch out for foggy glasses! And under my helmet, a synthetic balaclava provides a much-needed shield against the wind but is still breathable, plus it doesn’t impede my vision when I change lanes or turn.

DO maintain your bike This is a no-brainer. Winter road conditions are tricky, so a well-maintained bike is a must. Make sure your brakes are stellar. Wipe your bike down when you get home, as road salt will corrode your bike in no time. Clean your gears and chain every few rides, and don’t forget the wet lube.

DO wear your helmet OK, so this is the real no-brainer. Do you know the postal workers’ creed? “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds”? Well, neither snow nor rain nor heat should keep you from wearing your helmet. I admit I haven’t worn my helmet since the temps dropped, but I was lucky that my shoulder – not my head – broke my fall. (Thanks to physio, that shoulder is now recovering from a painful injured nerve.) No excuses. Wear. Your. Helmet.

Psst. Over here. Let me tempt you into buying a new helmet. Like polka-dots? Or a warm liner? I’ve got what you’re looking for right here! Lights, too! And even merino tops, both short-sleeve and long-sleeve ones. Nice, right? Now, don’t forget the girly reflective gear, you fashionista, you!

let it snow!

21 Wednesday Dec 2011

Posted by in outdoors, tech

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Though we’re lacking in snow here in Toronto and much of Canada, we can still enjoy gently falling flurries and frosty windows on which to write messages to ourselves. Just google the phrase let it snow in Firefox, and watch the snowflakes fall across your screen, then be amused as your screen fogs up with frost. Write whatever bon mots you want on your now-frosty “window,” and defrost when you’re done. How cool is that? (Yeh, I said it.)

A ho-ho-ho-holiday cheer on a faux frosty morning put a smile on this snowbird’s face.

winter solstice (or let’s skate, toronto)

20 Tuesday Dec 2011

Posted by in art, crafts, outdoors, sports

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My first skate of the season! OK, so I'm not actually in this pic, as I was behind the cam, but I was having just as much fun as those people gliding across the ice, trying not to fall.

Sadly, I’m spending the holidays here in Toronto. No, no, it’s not so bad. Spending the holidays last year in Costa Rica was divine, but as I’ve said before, I missed all the fun and family time in the Great White North while I was hiking great wild jungles in the south. But this year, we’re sorely lacking in snow here in T.O. Though it has been unseasonably warm (Toronto’s warmer than Texas and L.A.!), that hasn’t stopped peeps from having winter fun. Witness the families speeding around the rink at Nathan Phillips Square this past weekend. Somewhere in that crowd is the lovely lady who nearly gave me a black eye and bloody nose when she suddenly threw her arms out, whacking me in the face as she tried to catch her balance. And, yes, I was laughing along with her, cracking a joke that I don’t really need these glasses to see….

My goal for the holidays, aside from spending as much time with my family as possible, is to hit the rink every day. By no means am I a good skater, mind you. On Saturday, I had to ask a kind gentleman to hold my hand so I could step down onto the ice! And I had a few near collisions too – as the collidee, not the collider. But it’s always a hoot to try not to fall while feigning graceful glides (in my mind, I resemble a speed skater), and watching others fall funny or make every attempt not to fall is def good for a giggle.

So a-skating I will go before I head over to Kensington Market on Wednesday, Dec. 21, with my lantern in hand, ready to join the annual winter solstice parade. Winter solstice, symbolic of rebirth, marks the shortest day and longest night of the year, when the sun’s maximum elevation is at its lowest. Organized by Red Pepper Spectacle Arts, the parade in Kensington is a tradition, and many participants come prepared with a lantern made at Red Pepper’s PWYC lantern-making workshop the weekend before winter solstice. Be warned, this isn’t a parade that you watch from the sidelines – the route is usually so packed and the parade moves so slow, there’s really no room for folks to merely watch. And unless you’ve snagged yourself a prime rooftop perch, it’s ever more fun to join in the parade and light up the night!

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What: Kensington Market Winter Solstice parade
Where: Toronto, Ontario, Canada. The parade starts at the corner of Oxford Street and Augusta Avenue, proceeding through the market and ending in Alexandra Park at 8 p.m.
When: Wednesday, December 21, 2012, 6:30 p.m.
Bonus: Bring your lanterns and noisemakers.
Dress in colourful costume. Go with the flow!

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Ohh! Fire! Take a look at
how vibrant the parade
was in person…
Winter Solstice Parade
Explodes with Excitement

Check out Nathan Phillips Square
at night…
Skating in the Rain